CHARLES BRIDGE (KARLŮV MOST)

The Charles Bridge has become the symbol of the Czech capital the world over. It graces the front pages of tourist magazines, and attracts millions of visitors in its own right. But why is it so popular? Firstly, because the bridge is reserved for pedestrians, and links the two most charming districts of the city. But also because, lined with dozens of statues, it's a veritable gallery of art and history covering different styles and periods. And finally, because crossing it affords a superb view of the castle, the river and the city of a hundred steeples. Provided you know how to play elbow-to-elbow during the day... because the tourist crowds are unspeakable. The best solution, depending on when you visit Prague, may be to stroll the cobblestones of the bridge late in the evening or at sunrise, to take full advantage of the scenery. Between these two privileged moments, attention is more focused on the orchestras, caricaturists, souvenir sellers and the many tourists who gather at the best spots to take precious selfies. If you're lucky enough to be on the bridge by yourself, here's what you can expect: the Charles Bridge is a veritable open-air museum, at once the center of Prague and the privileged passageway between the two banks. Begun in 1357, when Charles IV (King of Bohemia and Emperor of the Romans) entrusted the project to the architect Petr Parler, construction was completed at the end of the ^15th century. The foundation stone was laid by Charles IV at 5:31 a.m. on July 9, 1357. All this was no coincidence: on that day, the Sun was in conjunction with the planet Saturn, which, according to medieval astronomy, represented the happiest event of the year, when Saturn's unfavorable influence is overcome by the Sun. The order of numbers and magic also played their part. The odd-numbered date representing the year, month, hour and minutes can thus be read in both directions: 1357/9/7/5/31! In 1683, based on the model of the Pont Saint-Ange in Rome, statues were installed to illustrate the city's religious history. Until 1850, Charles Bridge was Prague's only bridge.

For centuries, it served a number of functions: as a border crossing before the unification of Prague in 1784, as a place for settling disputes - criminals and troublemakers were executed here - and, finally, as a crossing on the Royal Road used by the Bohemian kings on their way to the castle. At the beginning of this century, the bridge was still open to streetcar and car traffic; today, it is open only to pedestrians, musicians, vendors and other street performers.

The tower of the Old Town Bridge. Passing the tower from Staré Město, you enter the bridge. It was built on the first pillar by Petr Parler. The country's coat of arms adorns the facade on the town side, but does not tell of the bloody events it witnessed. After the battle of White Mountain in 1621 and the defeat of the Protestants, the Catholics beheaded the twenty-seven organizers of the uprising - including Jan Jessenius, the university rector.

Twelve of these heads were mounted on the tower: six facing the river, the other six facing St. Saviour's Church. One of them fell off, while the others hung there for ten years before being buried at Notre-Dame-de-Týn by Protestant émigrés. The tower was part of the fortifications of the Old Town. On the façade, on the Old Town side, you can see Bohemian saints, Kings Wenceslas IV and Charles IV and the coats of arms of the countries that formed part of the crown of the Czech lands during the reign of Charles IV. The tower was sometimes used as a prison for all those who didn't pay their debts; on the walls inside you can see their messages, preserved to this day. If you can, climb the one hundred and thirty-eight steps to the top of the tower, where you'll enjoy a beautiful view of the Old Town, Charles Bridge and Prague Castle. Inside, there's also an exhibition of old musical instruments, accompanied by music played in the hall.

The statue gallery. There you are. This bridge is THE must-see site in Prague, and unfortunately everyone knows it. In the morning, it's a joy to wander around freely, without even worrying about other tourists (there's no one around), pickpockets or the like. Late summer afternoons, on the other hand, are a nightmare, with passers-by stepping on each other's toes, dodging picture sellers with difficulty and jostling for position near statues to be photographed. The bridge offers splendid views of the castle, Malá Straná and all the spires of the Old Town, but the most beautiful is the view of Malá Straná from the statue of St. Anthony of Padua (^9th from the right as you head towards Malá Straná). From this gallery, dominated by Baroque sculptural groups, the highlights on the way to Malá Straná are:

The Crucifixion, the Holy Cross group,^3rd from the right. Dating from 1628, this is one of the only bronze statues of Christ on the bridge. He is shown here surrounded by John the Evangelist and Saint Anne, during the Calvary.

Saint Jean Népomucène, the ^8th on the right. The oldest statue on the bridge (1683), designed by Brokof. The bas-reliefs illustrate the story of this ecclesiastic, canonized in 1729 as a martyr of the secret of confession. Legend has it that John of Pomuk refused to reveal his wife's confession to King Wenceslas IV. Mad with rage and jealousy, Wenceslas summoned the court chaplain to break the secret of confession. After resisting torture, Jean de Pomuk was thrown off Charles Bridge into the raging waters of the Vltava. You'll come across this saint again and again on your walks, often depicted in a chaplain's surplice, with a finger over his mouth. Now known as Saint John Nepomuk, he is the patron saint of flood victims.

Saint Ludmilla, ^8th from left. This statue by M.-B. Braun, 1730, depicts the saint teaching St. Wenceslas to read as a child. On the base is engraved the scene of Wenceslas' assassination in Stará Boleslav.

St. Luitgarde, ^12th from left. Created by M.-B. Braun in 1710, this sculpted group is generally considered the finest. It features St. Luitgarde and Christ on the Cross. According to legend, this saint, who lost her sight in a Cistercian convent, received the gift of knowing the secrets of the human heart and of communicating intimately with Christ. He is said to have exchanged his heart with her, and it is this exchange that is suggested in Braun's work. The National Gallery holds a study of this group in gilded wood.

Bruncvík, just before the stairs leading up to Na Kampě. This sculpture on the bridge parapet is one of Prague's most popular. It depicts a knight holding up his sword in warning, with a lion (the country's emblem) lying at his feet. Bruncvík's popularity stems from the legends surrounding him and his faithful companion, the lion, with whom he had several adventures in the desert.

Malá Strana side. Two medieval towers mark the end of Charles Bridge and the entrance to Malá Strana. The smaller tower dates back to the late ^12th century. In fact, it was part of the fortifications of the Romanesque Judith Bridge. Its Renaissance-style decoration was created in 1591. It is linked by a footbridge to the neighboring, larger and more recent tower. Given its style and location, the latter was probably built to face the tower on the Old Town side. It dates from the second half of the ^15th century. A magnificent view over the roofs of Malá Strana and the panorama of Prague Castle awaits you, if you're brave enough to climb the tower's staircase. Inside, a small exhibition recalls the history of the Charles Bridge.