Dvořak, classical musicians and the Prague Spring
A composer revealed by Brahms and Liszt, Antonín Dvořák drew on Czech folklore and culture for his work, as evidenced by his famous Slavonic Dances. But the composer is best remembered for his New World Symphony, which he wrote on his return from the USA. And that's the paradox of Dvořák. Gifted as they were, it's not Janáček, Smetana or Martinů who represent the soul of Bohemia to music lovers, but Dvořák. His monumental oeuvre spans all genres: symphonies, chamber music, dances, as well as operas, concertos and rhapsodies. While Smetana was just as adept at drawing on his country's musical roots, his New World Symphony, , premiered in the Rudolfinum's largest hall, was a bridge between the music of the past and the music of modernity, between old Europe and pioneering America. This imposing neo-Renaissance building on the banks of the Vltava is home to the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, the country's benchmark orchestra, and is also the venue for major classical music festivals such as Prague Spring and Autumn Strings.
However, it was not Dvořák who was named the father of Czech music, but Smetana. The latter knew how to blend folklore and "national modernism". In 1866, he was appointed head of the Provisional Theater. From then on, the composer devoted his life to building a Czech national theater, which became a cultural symbol of the Czech Republic. Má Vlast(My Homeland) is a symphony of six beautiful musical tableaux, including the unstoppable Vltava (Moldau). The concert hall of the Czech Philharmonic in Obecní Dům (the Municipal House) bears his name. A passionate composer and humanist, Leoš Janáček spent most of his life in and around Brno. It wasn't until he was 60 that his popularity spread beyond Moravia to Prague. Today, he is recognized as one of the greatest composers in the history of opera, thanks to works such as Jenufa, Katja Kabanova and L'Affaire Makropoulos. Bohuslav Martinů, who spent his entire career in exile, is recognized as one of the most important symphonists since Sibelius.
Music available on every street corner
One of the Czech Republic's major events, the Prague Spring (Prazské jaro), has been held in the Czech capital every May-June since 1946. The opening night of this international classical music festival takes place in the Smetana Hall at the Municipal House, with, as tradition dictates, Bedřich Smetana's famous symphonic poem My Homeland. In its majestic Art Nouveau building, the festival has welcomed the greatest composers of our time, such as Arthur Honneger and Leonard Bernstein. Other interesting concert venues include the Žofín Palace, the Church of Saints Simon and Jude and the Church of St. Anne. Prague's churches offer a plethora of concerts, with a penchant for Baroque music, often featuring Vivaldi, Bach and Mozart. The Clementinum is a Baroque complex that organizes concerts in its magnificent Mirror Chapel. The Liechtenstein Palace, in the Malá Strana district, is home to the Prague Academy of Music. Students often perform here. Located in the former Church of St. Mary Magdalene, the Museum of Music highlights Prague's long tradition through a fascinating exhibition. Among the exhibits are harpsichords, a giraffe piano, scores of Beethoven compositions and a rich collection of musical instruments. Music-lovers can also visit the Vysehrad cemetery to pay their respects to composers and musicians Antonín Dvořák, Josef Suk, Karel Ancerl and Rafael Kubelík.
The National Theatre 's New Stage (Nová scéna) is a modern building that hosts plays, ballets and operas. It is also the home of the Laterna magika troupe. Unlike the National Theater, whose programming oscillates mainly between Janáček, Smetana, Dvořák and Martinů, and the State Theater, which remains classic in its choices, the Nová Scéna focuses all its programming on contemporary creation.
Jazz and gypsy music
As you cross the mythical Pont Saint-Charles, you're sure to be accompanied by the gypsy fiddles of street musicians. Music has always been a bonding and socializing factor within the Gypsy community. Unfortunately, as with language, most musical traditions were lost in the Czech lands during the Communist period, with the strong policy of assimilation put in place. Czech Gypsy musicians often mix genres, such as Prague Gypsies Gipsy.cz, who blend hip-hop music with Gypsy fiddle, or gifted violinist Iva Bittová, who composes beautiful contemporary music. Every year in May, Prague hosts Khamoro, the international festival of Roma culture, with its many evenings of Gypsy music.
When it comes to jazz, the Czech Republic is no exception. Imported in the 1920s, jazz has never ceased to express itself in Prague's clubs and is an active part of the capital's cultural life. From bebop and traditional jazz to the late 1990s, the Prague scene has evolved to offer its own universe. To discover it, head to Jazz Dock, one of the city's leading jazz venues. Built on a platform on the banks of the Vltava, this club offers the very best in jazz. But you'll be spoilt for choice between theAghaRTA Jazz Centrum and its magnificent cellar, where Chick Coréa and Pat Metheny have played, the Reduta, which has played host to all the greats, from Nina Simone to Ella Fitzgerald and Ray Charles, and the USP Jazz Lounge, where former president Bill Clinton tried his hand at the sax. Today's greatest jazzmen are Jiří Stivín, a flute player with fantastic improvisations, Emil Viklický, a pianist and composer who has succeeded in combining modern jazz and folk music to great effect, and Milan Svoboda, who has toured the world with his quartet. There's also the jazz fusion of Tibor Feledi's Kairos quintet, Tellemark, whose jazz is infused with electronic and world music influences, Crescent Quartet, whose adulation of Coltrane is undeniable, and internationally renowned pianist Kristina Barta.
The rock, pillar of the nightlife
Today's Czech rock scene is bursting with activity, but it also played a key role in the not-too-distant past. In September 1976, the Communist regime, which had decided to attack the opposition, staged a show trial against members of the underground band The Plastic People of the Universe. None of the band's lyrics contained any political connotations, but the simple fact that they played rock music, echoing artists such as Frank Zappa and Lou Reed, and sang in English, made them a prime target. But the result was far from what was expected, and the maneuver turned the band's musicians into symbols of resistance. It prompted intellectuals to unite in a citizens' movement, for which playwright Václav Havel became the spokesperson. The actions of these activists led to the overthrow of the government and Václav Havel's accession to power. Underlining the role of rock in the uprising, the new president invited the Rolling Stones to give a concert in Prague's gigantic Strahov stadium to celebrate the victory.
Today, the rock scene is represented by bands with evocative names: Laura a její tygři (Laura and her tigers), Žlutý psi (Yellow dogs), Půlnoc (Midnight) and, on the harder side, Tři Sestry (Three sisters), very popular Buty from Ostrava, then Lucie with David Koler. Established bands perform on the Meetfactory stage, at the Roxy, at the colorful Palác Akropolis, on the round stage of the Lucerna Music Bar or at the Forum Karlín. These clubs have become nightlife hotspots in every district of the city - from the industrial Smíchov, to the rundown streets of Žižkov, to the more hipster tourist center of Karlín. Rock Café claims to be Prague's oldest club, and also offers small, inexpensive concerts almost every night. Less than 200 m from Rock Café, the Batalion club welcomes fans in a vaulted cellar with a very comic-book decor. The bar and club are decorated with illustrations by Kaja Saudek, one of the greatest Czech comic strip artists. Finally, on the main Národní street, the Vagon's clientele, mostly locals, drink beers and listen to rock music all night long.
Prague has seen an explosion of concerts, parties and electro clubs. A festive city that never sleeps, visitors in search of electro music will have no trouble finding a night out. The Cross Club in the north of the city is undoubtedly the best place to start your evening, with its absolutely surreal decor. As is the Bunkr Parukářka in the Žižkov district, which distils a very special atmosphere, as it is installed 20 m underground in the Parukářka hill: it's a former fallout shelter!
The tradition of the Taneční
A local speciality, Taneční are dance classes attended by many young teenagers. Organized in the Czech lands since 1830, they teach not only dance steps (polka, waltz, cha-cha-cha, rumba...), but also posture and good manners. Youngsters learn not to chew gum while dancing, to ask their mothers if they can ask their daughters to dance, to escort their daughters back to their tables... Teachers also pay close attention to style of dress, advising their pupils to avoid ridicule: suits should be dark, no white socks with a black suit... For the last lesson, the girls dress in white evening gowns, in reference to the tradition of the debutante ball and their presentation to society. Classes are sometimes also offered for adults. If you're interested, the Taneční Škola Astra offers classes for all ages, and the Taneční škola Hes is also highly reputed.
The puppet theater
Another local tradition going back a hundred and fifty years, puppet theater began as an itinerant art form, and today remains a national symbol for Czech and Slovak cultures. Puppeteers used wooden figures as a means of expressing their thoughts and ideas freely, particularly when talking about politics. These theaters are also used playfully to teach children about the world around them. The entire population attends local performances on holidays and public holidays. Since 2016, puppet theater has been listed as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity by Unesco. If you're discovering Prague with children, book your evening at the Spejbl and Hurvínek Theater, a traditional puppet show featuring two characters who narrate their adventures and humorously digress on the meaning of life. The National Puppet Theatre is the reference in this field. This classic show tells the witty story of Mozart's life through the operas Don Giovanni and The Magic Flute. You'll have a great time, and your children will love it. Near the Charles Bridge, there's a very interesting store specializing in the little world of puppets. Its founder Pavel Truhlář exhibits the work of over fifty Czech puppeteers. The range on offer is extensive, from plaster casts, replicas of original puppets, to wood-carved originals.
