THE OLD CHINESE CITY NANSHI

Reduced as a matter of grief by the onset of concessions in the th and early th centuries, the old Chinese city remained static in past years. A travel guide published in 1934 stipulated that «Shanghai was not China, but it had to go to Nanshi, (the city of the south) in the old Chinese city…». If, at the time of concessions, the Chinese were forced to stay in the Chinese area, then a majority of them settled there, with a tax for that. They had no right to vote in the municipalities. Nanshi remained a purely Chinese ghetto, without faith or law, crucible of the gangsters and revolutionary parties hiding in narrow streets, lined with tripots and fumeries. Foreigners, except missionaries, avoid places. During the th century, the old town underwent several devastating fires, but retained its architecture. Only the ramparts of the city, erected in 1553 were demolished in 1912 and replaced by the Renmin Lu, the circular avenue today the ancient limits of the Chinese city. Since 1949, the old town has been the subject of great work, which began in 1994-1995. The Yu Garden area has been redesigned. Important imitation architectures have been built in place of old traditional houses. Go under the traditional Chinese Portico at the crossroads of Henan Nanlu and Fang Bang Lu to arrive at the old Bazaar, formerly known as the Temple Bazar of the City Protector, at the heart of which is the famous Yu Garden dating back to the th century. There are numerous jewellers: according to tradition, gold bought near temples is supposed to bear happiness.