PLACE OF JANUARY 14, 2011

The former Place du 7 Novembre was renamed Place du 14 Janvier 2011 following the Jasmine Revolution and the fall of President Ben Ali. In the evening, the fountain is lit up with colorful lights, making the water dance to music projected by loudspeakers around the square, bringing together many Tunisians.

Since its renovation, the square'sclock has been a strange cross between an Egyptian obelisk and the clock at the Gare de Lyon in Paris. The tower is made of openwork metal, its gilded spire gleaming, and in the evening, the electricity wafts through the lace of steel that soars towards the starry vault. The fountain at its foot, silent by day, becomes musical as soon as night falls. One of the city's liveliest districts lies to the south of avenue Habib-Bourguiba, around avenue Farhat-Hached and place de Barcelone. Small restaurants display French dishes, the atmosphere becomes feverish near the market near Place de Barcelone, and the cafés are packed.

The bronze statue of Ibn Khaldun stands betweenthe French Embassy and the Saint-Vincent-de-Paul Cathedral, a neo-Romanesque edifice built in 1882. Behind the cathedral, Rue de Rome leads to Place de la Monnaie, home to the museum of the same name. Continue along avenue Habib-Thameur to place de la République, where the pleasant jardin Thameur is located, and the avenue de la Liberté begins, leading to the Lafayette and Belvédère districts.

The shoppingdistrict is to the left of avenue Habib-Bourguiba, as you head up towards the medina. On Rue Khaldun, take a look at the Maison de la Culture Tunisienne, which hosts a wide range of exhibitions. This building, which once housed the Alliance française, has a beautiful mosaic in its center. Cinemas are plentiful.

Take rue Farhat-Hached on the right to reach Place de Barcelone and Place Mongi-Bali, where you'll find the train station. In the center of the square stands the statue of Mongi Bali, founder of the Tunisian Boy Scouts. From here, you can continue along Rue Abden-Wasseur, on the right, home to a number of small shops selling newspapers, photos, shoes and more

On the left, at the end of the Rue d'Espagne, a pedestrianized street with plenty of shops, you'll find the central market. Semi-covered and open every morning except Sunday, the market is enchanting with its smells, colors and lively Arab music.