GHRIBA SYNAGOGUE

If the island has about twenty synagogues, the synagogue of Ghriba deserves a visit during your stay in Djerba. This place of prayer carries a legend that all Djerbians know: a foreigner would have come to settle in this place, alone with her tent. One night, during a storm, her tent caught fire and she died of asphyxiation, but her body remained intact and untouched. The synagogue was built on the site of the miracle and is called La Ghriba in memory of this stranger. The date of creation of the synagogue is uncertain and, another legend or reality, some say that the first stone of the building would come from the temple of Solomon. The current state of the building dates from its last renovation in 1938. The exterior architecture, in the colors of Tunisia, white and blue, does not present any real interest. By respecting the conditions of access, crossing the security portico and covering the head and shoulders, one enters this very oriental decor of glazed tiles, baroque woodwork, gold objects, silver ornaments and colored stained glass. The light is subdued and there is a smell of incense. In this spiritual atmosphere, rabbis spent (and sometimes still spend) their day chanting and singing. Comfortably seated in relaxed attitudes, they seem to ignore visitors. The Ghriba houses one of the oldest Torahs in the world: the scrolls of the Pentateuch that contain the essence of the Mosaic Law, the Jewish Law. It is locked up in the synagogue throughout the week. On Saturday, the Sabbath, the chief rabbi opens the carved wooden doors adorned with chiseled jewels that protect it, takes out the Torah and comments on it before the faithful. According to the rabbis of the Ghriba synagogue, the Jews of the island have been living in Djerba since 586 BC, the date on which Nebuchadnezzar destroyed Jerusalem. Taking with them certain manuscripts of the Tables of the Law, Jewish communities settled all over the world, mainly in North Africa. In 539, Cyrus, king of the Persians, authorized the return of the Jews to the holy city. Many returned, others remained where they were, notably in Djerba. While retaining their religion, they became Arabs, adopted Arab names and language, but did not convert to Islam. Early Arab literature includes some of the finest works written by Jewish poets and singers. More than 2,000 years passed until a significant decline in the community was felt with the proclamation of the State of Israel in 1948. The current Jewish community has only 650 members, almost all of whom are gathered in Er Riadh. In Djerba, the understanding between Jews and Muslims is perfect, you will probably have the opportunity to notice it by yourself in the Souks of the Jewelers or in the Jewish quarter where you may go to eat a brik. A pilgrimage is held every year at La Ghriba, three weeks after the Jewish Passover. For two days, the Tables of the Law are carried across the island. This event attracts many believers from all over the world, it is also a very popular festival for all Djerbians, whether Jews, Muslims or Christians, who meet here to celebrate together a message of love and peace. This is another illustration of the extraordinary way in which people live together in Djerba.