CAFÉ DE ZWART

It's a real favorite, but the competition is fierce on the Place Spui! De Zwart is a youngster, dating back only to 1921. It's on the corner of this pretty literary square. Its clientele, made up of intellectuals, writers and apprentice-writers, is loyal. It's a quiet, music-free place, with a lovely terrace for watching cyclists and pedestrians. The service is efficient and humorous. A quality address where you can stop for a coffee after buying the press or a book in French from the bookshop next door.