MEETING GORILLAS

"In the heart of Central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat, are the magnificent 4,500-meter-high volcanoes, almost entirely covered by lush rainforest, known as Virunga," wrote the renowned primatologist Dian Fossey. The Volcanoes National Park protects this mountainous ecosystem, composed of bamboo forests, refuge of the last mountain gorillas. Meeting them in their natural habitat remains one of the most exciting and moving experiences in Africa. It all starts with an early morning meeting at Kinigi, the headquarters of Volcanoes National Park. Advance booking is highly recommended, either online (visitrwandabookings.rdb.rw) or through a tour operator, as the lists are long and the number of visitors per day is limited. It is advisable to spend the night before the visit nearby. The hotels know the drill: a hearty buffet is ready by 5:30 am. You can also leave Kigali for the day, but the departure is then at 4:30 am ... Visitors can not exceed 8 people per group, the guides are inflexible on the subject. The gorillas are divided into 12 groups/families (Susa, Igisha, Karisimbi, Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Agashya, Kwitonda, Umubano, Hirwa, Bwenge, Ugyenda and Muhoza). Hikes to their usual living quarters can last from 30 minutes to 3 hours or more, with elevations ranging from 2,500 m to 4,000 m. Porters accompany the groups and their guide. If you are not in good physical condition, insist on an easily accessible group. A waterproof jacket, a fleece, hiking boots, possibly waterproof gaiters and gloves are also very useful. After having walked in meadows, the entry in the forest is rather abrupt: suddenly, we find ourselves in a jungle of bamboos. The evolution in this dense forest is a moment charged with suspense and emotion. The guides will not fail to teach you the basics of communication with the gorillas and a whole lot of things on this vegetation which constitutes their usual food, not less than 200 plants in their menu, also edible for the man! The more we advance, the more the atmosphere becomes wild and mysterious. And a few radio calls later, we find the trackers, in charge of locating the gorillas, and finally... we discover these big hairy mammals, eating, playing, climbing, rolling in the high grass... You are now propelled in the intimacy of these big primates. The show is fascinating! Especially when the baby gorillas get involved... The presence of an adult male gorilla (silverback), three times bigger than a human being, peaceful and tolerant, gives an indescribable feeling. So, of course, we take pictures or film them. But it is just as well to leave the camera and live the moment, because what is the point of living this rare hour if you remain with your eye glued to a viewfinder. The guides manage to communicate with the gorillas, notably by uttering grunts that can be translated as "We are friends! Memorable. The time that humans are present with the primates is limited to one hour. For those who wish to follow in Dian Fossey's footsteps, her grave is a 30-minute drive from the park headquarters and then a 2-3 hour walk through the forest at an altitude of over 3,000 meters. If the gorillas are still alive today, it is largely due to the work of Dian Fossey. The worldwide success of the biographical film Gorillas in the Mist (1988) raised international awareness of the danger of extinction of the mountain gorillas. The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund Museum, which opened in 2020, is a must-see if you are in Musanze. With children under the age of 15 being forbidden to trek to see the gorillas in their natural habitat, this center allows a virtual immersion thanks to an interactive exhibition and 360 degree film projections. We learn a lot about the life of these primates - who force respect, admiration, humility; about the different families of gorillas, their way of life and communication, the great work of researchers, trackers and rangers and of course, the life and work of Dian Fossey.

Silverback. Mountain gorillas are a different species from their lowland cousins and were unknown to western scientists until 1902. They are darker, but also stronger, because they must climb trees. Gorillas share 97% of their genes with humans, are very social and travel in groups of 5 to 50 animals. Groups include a dominant male, three or four females, and several young, from babies to teenagers. An adult gorilla can weigh up to 200 kg and live up to 45 years. Gorillas feed mainly on foliage, bamboo shoots, eucalyptus bark... In fact, they spend half their time eating. Females reach their sexual maturity at eight years old, males at thirteen years old. As with humans, gestation is nine months, but babies are only born every four to five years. Gorillas have few natural enemies and can live up to 50 years in the wild. For the anecdote, the young gorillas (whose hairs are black) acquire around 12 years old grey hairs in the lower back, sign of their maturity, sexual notably. Hence their name, silverback.

Kwita Izina. All the gorillas receive a name: Igiti Baby, Poppy Baby, Tamu Baby... This happens every year since 2005 during an annual ceremony called Kwita Izina, which usually takes place in September. A special time to visit Volcanoes National Park, with guided tours, meetings with park staff and conservationists, cultural evenings and a big celebration in Musanze. Each gorilla is identified by its nose print, which is always unique, just like our fingerprints. A way to know them better and to follow them more closely. The newborns can now be adopted symbolically, and the lucky sponsors will be able to closely follow the evolution of their protégé. The funds collected are injected into projects for the populations living in the immediate vicinity of the parks.

Revenue from permits. In addition to the protection of the gorillas and their living environment that the sale of permits covers, while targeting - it must be said - a luxury tourist clientele, 10% of the revenues generated are dedicated to local communities, invested in the construction of schools and health centers, as well as roads. There is also a compensation fund for local farmers if gorillas damage their crops, which helps ensure peaceful coexistence. Gorilla monitoring also provides employment for many local people, from rangers and trackers to porters, drivers and lodge staff.

Gorilla Gram. Posting photos of gorillas on social media with appropriate tags (including the names of gorilla families encountered, for example) will help scientists, rangers, and monitoring teams track groups and individuals. This interactive tool is accessible from Visitrwanda.com.

Also. Gorillas are the most popular activity in Volcanoes National Park, but other excursions are possible: hikes to meet the golden monkeys, climbing for experienced hikers of Mount Bisoke (only for climbers in very good physical condition), Gahinga, Sabyinyo, Karisimbi, Muhabura, visiting the Buhanga Ecological Park (possibility to go for several days and camping). For more information, reservations and payment of permits, visit visitrwanda.com and visitrwandabookings.rdb.rw.