ALAVERDI MONASTERY

It's called "Allah Verdi", the "gift of God" in the ancient Persian language. In the Middle Ages, the monastery marked the boundary of the Christian world. Beyond it lay the land of Islam, which influenced its name. You'll see the monastery from afar: for over a thousand years, its 50 m-high bell tower has dominated the horizon. In the heart of the wine-growing plain, on the banks of the Alazani river, surrounded by hills streaked with vineyards and the Caucasus mountains, protected by its high ramparts, the monastic complex is one of Georgia's most beautiful religious monuments. Saint-Georges-d'Alaverdi is one of the three great ^11th-century Georgian cathedrals, along with Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta and Bagrati in Koutaïssi, one of the three symbolic pillars of Georgian history.

Try to visit the site in September, during the Alaverdoba festival. It takes place for a few days at the end of September. The 28th of the month marks the feast of Saint Joseph of Alaverdi, one of the thirteen Assyrian fathers and founder of the original church in the ^6th century. Originally, the festival lasted three weeks, dedicated to the cult and cycles of the Moon. An excellent example of religious syncretism. Azeris, Lezgins, Avars, Chechen Kists and Kurds of the Muslim faith regularly take part.

St. George of Alaverdi Cathedral was built by the Kakhetian king Kviriké in the ^11th century, on the site of a pre-existing monastery founded in the ^6th century. It was damaged by earthquakes; then, in the ^19th century, the Russians painted the interior walls to erase the Georgian frescoes, which were partially restored in 1966. Once past the imposing ramparts, you'll pass by the vineyards. The monks still produce wine, carrying on the tradition that began when the monastery was founded.

The entire monastery is fortified. The cathedral is cross-shaped, with three apses set in a rectangle. Its exterior decoration is minimal, like that of most Kakhetian buildings, but its proportions are of astonishing classical harmony. The interior is spacious and majestic. The dome boasts 16 windows that radiate light and accentuate the impression of space. Among the frescoes, that of St. George slaying the dragon, above the western portico, is the most famous, but the oldest is the Virgin and Child above the altar.

Alaverdi is a candidate for Unesco World Heritage protection. The site is now a monastery; the monks will let you visit, but please be as discreet as possible.