LAVRA-OUDABNO

The site is exceptional. The first complex to visit is Lavra-Oudabno. Lavra is the largest monastery; it is fortified and is the base of the monks living in Garedja today. The monks are quite strict, but they will let you in. The fortifications have a watchtower from the 18th century. The portico leading into it is a famous monument; an inscription describes the relationship of the monks with nature. As you enter, you will find on the left hand side the small 17th century church of St. Nicholas, the only non-troglodytic church in the complex. Then you come to the central courtyard, where the caves where the monks live are arranged in layers; these were the first caves built by David and his disciples. Go down into the courtyard; directly below the church of St. Nicholas is the troglodytic church of the Transfiguration (Peristsvaléba). The tombs of David, Dodo and Loukiané are there. Above this courtyard is a separately fortified complex. This is where the monks live, you cannot enter it.

To go up above Lavra and not cross the monks' dwelling place, you have to go out again, turn left and then turn left on the path behind the monastery. After about 50 metres you will pass the cave called "David's Tear" which contains a spring. Continue to the left of the spring to climb 2 km to the top of the hill and arrive at the Oudabno monastery (of the desert).

When you reach the top, you overlook the steppes of Azerbaijan. You've reached the farthest reaches of the Christian world. Walk past a small chapel, to go down a few meters to the cliffs on the other side of the hill. There, facing Azerbaijan, the caves and the entirely troglodytic monastery of Oudabno lie along the path. The site is breathtakingly beautiful. The monastery is not inhabited, but the monks of Lavra maintain it. The caves are covered with magnificent 10th-13th century cave frescoes, testimony to the brilliant school that was born here. Do not miss the old refectory in a central cave, nor the fresco of the Last Supper (11th century), one of the greatest achievements of Georgian pictorial art. One could spend hours climbing from cave to cave to discover new frescoes. Some of them are in poor condition and have been vandalized, but many of them are incredibly well preserved. At the end of the monastery, you can go around and back down to Lavra from the other side.