SVETITSKHOVELI CATHEDRAL

It is exceptional. Architecturally, it's a masterpiece. Symbolically and spiritually, the site is also unique: the cathedral is one of the last witnesses to the Kartli kingdom (^3rd-5th century). The architecture of the present-day monument, rebuilt on^5th-century buildings, dates back to the ^11th century. It reflects the extreme refinement of medieval art at the time. The building also preserves much older vestiges, such as wall frescoes dating back to Antiquity. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the other monuments of Mtskheta, the cathedral reflects the high level of culture, art and social, political and economic development achieved by the Kartli kingdom and its impact on the region. Let's not forget: Christianity was introduced to Georgia here. From here, the new religion spread and flourished throughout the country. Svetitskhoveli, literally "life-giving column", is still Georgia's most sacred monument. Before visiting it, please observe the following instructions: women, even in pants, must cover their legs and hair, avoid wearing sleeveless T-shirts, and shorts are forbidden.

The cathedral takes its name from an ancient legend. The cathedral is home to several tombs of sovereigns. The story goes that the original monument was built in the ^4th century, shortly after King Mirian's conversion to Christianity, at the behest of Saint Nino, the instigator of this conversion. The building, originally made of wood, was built over the site of the tomb of St. Sidonia clasping in her hands the shroud of Jesus Christ, brought back from Jerusalem by Elias, who had acquired it from a soldier on Golgotha, according to a very old legend (see "The story of St. Nino"). Regularly destroyed by invading armies over the centuries, the present monument was erected between 1010 and 1029. It was once the seat of the Patriarchate, before being transferred to Tbilisi for political reasons. Kings were crowned, married and buried here. In medieval times, the Church not only had a fundamental impact on the daily lives of Georgians, it also owned a great deal of land, which was the source of its wealth. Surrounded by walls dating from the ^18th century, restored under the reign of Heraclius II, the monument has a beautiful appearance. It is crowned by a green dome, 54 m high, with a cruciform plan and three naves. Your first stop is the ^11th-century Porte des Taureaux (Bull Gate). It takes its name from the two bull heads that appear on the wall. They are a symbol of fertility. The monument is so admirable that it is said that the ruler of Mtskheta was so jealous of the cathedral's beauty that he had the architect's hand cut off.

If you visit the monument counter-clockwise, on the outside, along the west façade, a series of bas-reliefs depict St. George accompanied by eagles, vines and lions. The lions symbolize wealth and fertility. The low walls in front of the wall are all that remain of the side chapels destroyed by the Russians in the ^19th century. The eastern façade is more richly decorated. Three windows evoke the Holy Trinity. They are adorned with an eagle and a lion, representing nobility and royal lineage. The north wall features Jesus, the cross, an eagle and rays, possibly representing the thirteen Assyrian fathers or Saint Nino. The hand holding the square is thought to be the signature of the unfortunate architect.

Inside, on the left, you'll see a rectangular basin used as a baptismal font. It was here that King Mirian and his wife Nana, and later successive rulers, were baptized. The treasure is said to have been hidden in the upper sections. On the far right is a model of a ^13th-century church said to have been built in Jerusalem by the Roman Emperor Constantine. The original edifice would have been built on the very site of Christ's crucifixion. On the left is the base of the famous "living pillar", the origin of the church's name, which once supported the original wooden edifice. Further on, you'll see the seat of the catholicos. Saint Sidonie is still buried here. In the past, a tree would have grown over her grave. Columns are covered with frescoes depicting Constantine and his mother Helena around the cross, Jesus healing a sick man, Christ entering Jerusalem, the Annunciation, Archangel Gabriel, the Holy Trinity, Abraham... You'll also see the four Evangelists. King Vakhtang Gorgasali, who built the stone church, and thirteen other rulers are buried here. The frescoes on the right-hand wall show Jesus in the midst of the twelve signs of the zodiac, a rare representation in Christian art. In the apse at the far end, the monumental Christ fresco dates back to the ^11th century. It is the most remarkable and the oldest. Most of the church's other frescoes were painted in the ^17th century. Two chapels, dedicated respectively to St. Elijah and St. Nicholas, stand alongside the huge fresco. In this way, the church tells its own story.