SULTAN'S PALACE AND MUSEUM

Pointing out the palace's location is a laughable exercise, given the number of touts and other occasional guides luring tourists to the site. It's an unnecessary service, since the palace has its own guide. Facing the market, your eye is drawn to the walls painted in the colors of Ndop, the traditional blue-and-white Bamoun cloth. A large archway opens onto the courtyard, where a statue of King Njoya, builder of the palace, greets visitors on his cabled horse. In this courtyard, an old wall has survived, where successive colonial administrators (German, then French) are listed. The huts of the (many) wives of the Sultan and his notables stand all around the palace, whose construction dates back to the beginning of the last century. 1917 to be exact. Impressed by the magnificent residence of the German governor of Buéa, Njoya Ibrahim, the most famous and greatest of the Bamoun kings, decided to build a large, solid structure to put an end to the fires that regularly ravaged his palace, then made of bamboo and thatch.

The king himself drew up the plans for the palace. "But he wasn't an architect," the guide often laughs, when visitors are astonished to discover the building's scattered columns and leaning walls. A strange blend of oriental residence and medieval castle, the palace was completed in 1921. Thanks to a Unesco-funded project, it was completely renovated in the early 1990s, restoring it to its former glory.

The huge columns lining the palace's main hall create a mournful yet solemn atmosphere, as if from another time. The staircases that run along the walls lead to the royal chambers, adding a little more to the very special atmosphere that reigns in the hall.

Particularly attached to Bamoun culture, the king reserved part of the building for the present-day royal museum as soon as his palace was completed in the 1920s. A large tapestry by Njoya welcomes tourists at the start of the tour. The traditional headdresses, bells, fly-whiskers and dance masks in the display cases often date from earlier centuries. Very well preserved, they are reused during major festivals, giving the museum a lively feel. The well-organized tour revolves around the two pillars of Bamoun history: royalty and war.

A room in the center of the museum displays the king's enthronement robes. These are two capes made from the feathers of nocturnal birds, worn by the heir chosen from among the sons of the king's royal-blooded wife. The current sovereign is Ibrahim Mbombo Njoya. He is always accompanied by his institutional sister, a sister of the same father, who acts as his advisor. The panther coat, the main royal ornament, begins with a beast skin in front of the throne, then extends over 15 m, and only the king is allowed to walk on it. On either side of the throne are the two shields with the two-headed snake, symbolizing the king's power. Other animals appear with recurrence, notably the spider, symbol of ardor and hard work, and the bee. Legends about the Bamoun kings are also retranscribed in the palace's various rooms, including that of the giant king, Mboumbouo. His huge portrait mask occupies the wall of a room dedicated to him. It is said that this king, whose conquests increased his territory from 500 ^km2 to 7,500 ^km2, was over eleven meters tall and could sit on the roof of the palace. To justify the legend, two-metre pipes were built..

The Hall of Secret Societies reveals the role they played when the kingdom was at its height. Charged with protecting the king and custom, their members always appeared veiled at major ceremonies.

A proud and warlike people, the Bamoun used to decorate their calabashes with the lower jaws of their adversaries, many examples of which are on display in the museum. Amazingly, women went into battle just like men.

In the lower hall of the palace is a series of thrones, including the extremely modern throne of the current king. Made of leather, it contrasts with the other royal seats, which are traditionally crafted with pearls, cowrie shells, the two twins and elephant tusks. King Njoya's throne is particularly beautiful, all in pearls, with two twins behind and two in front to serve as footrests. The seats are always framed by enormous elephant tusks, weighing up to 150 kg. Inside the Royal Palace, the traditional court of justice deals with local problems, as well as marriages. The notables judge first, and the king has the final say. The king remains an important figure for both the Bamoun and the central government. The current king has spent part of his life in the service of the state, as a diplomat and minister. And every politician seeks his support, including foreign leaders.

The area around the museum. The area around the museum is teeming with craft stores, whose wares are shipped in from all over the country. Bafang or Foulbé masks, Choa daggers... The choice isn't as extensive as in the area around the rue des artisans, but the trade is more relaxing.