Travel guide Tanger

If you ask a Tangier native which local culinary specialty he or she prefers, chances are they'll mention bissara. This slightly thick soup is simmered with split peas, garlic, cumin and olive oil. It's served all over town, in all the gargotes and malbanas of the medina and the new town.

The influence of the neighbouring country can be felt everywhere in the city. It can be felt in the local cuisine, in a certain architecture and in cultural habits. Thus, the "paseo" is practiced by the Tangierese. This custom consists in going out for a walk in the city, when the hot hours are over, shortly before nightfall.

A real time for oneself, the hammam is also an opportunity for social exchange. You can catch up on local news. Depending on the time of day, the hammam is reserved for men or women. In the past, many hammams were found in the vicinity of mosques, as these public baths were used to perform the rite of purification before prayer.

This word refers to would-be illegal immigrants who end up in Tangier in the hope of entering the Spanish enclave of Ceuta or boarding a makeshift boat for Spain via the Strait. The word means "burner", and refers to the sad bonfire in which the migrants engage with their papers before boarding.

In addition to the obvious European influences, Tangier's inhabitants have preserved their way of life. If you're in a hurry, you'll have to learn to be patient. Stores open late in the morning and close late in the evening. On Fridays, the day of prayer, it's a good idea to check store opening times. Some are closed and reopen in the afternoon.

Traditionally, downtown stores are grouped together in kissarias, halfway between shopping arcades and covered markets. They are interwoven to form a large bazaar overflowing with a wide variety of goods. Some kissarias are specialized, such as those selling fabrics or cosmetics.

Found on every street corner, malbanas are small grocery stores selling food and beverages. It's usually possible to eat in. You buy what you want and the grocer-cook prepares it for you. Some of these bouis-bouis are renowned for their preparations, and it's not uncommon to queue up.

Bargaining is an integral part of the commercial relationship and of Moroccan culture. Before embarking on a lengthy negotiation, find out the acceptable price range for your target product. Haggling should be seen as a win-win relationship, with a final price that satisfies both parties.

The medina refers to the old quarters of a Moroccan city. Tangier's medina is renowned for its authentic charm. It's also less crowded than those of Marrakech, Fez or Meknes. With its narrow streets, cul-de-sacs, traditional boutiques, hotels and restaurants, it's easy and pleasant to get lost.

Like all coastal towns, Tangier has a lively fish market. Except that the market in the city on the Strait features fish caught in both the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. The selection is impressive. Its overheated atmosphere, 50s design, smooth-talking vendors and hesitant shoppers make this market a feast for the eyes.

With its strategic position at the confluence of the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, the port of Tangier has shaped the city. As a fishing, yachting, passenger and freight port, Tangier is home to several harbors that invite you to travel. Ferries disembark from Spain, cargo ships arrive from China, trawlers return from the open sea.

Although very practical for visiting Tangier and the surrounding area, it's important not to confuse small and large cabs. The former, in turquoise and yellow, weave their way through the port city on short journeys. The latter, lodgies or old Mercedes, wait at the bus station for longer journeys.