MEDINA

The old town of Essaouira used to be entered through the Navy Gate. Built in 1769 by Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah during the reconstruction of the city, it linked the city to the embarkation docks while remaining safe from the fire of any ships stationed offshore. From the top of its Vauban-style walls, a viewpoint encompasses the entire medina and the port. Bab el-Sebaa (the Lion Gate), at the corner of Avenue Mohammed V, marks the entrance to the old kasbah, which was once the residence of the sultan's administration and European consuls. Deliberately lose yourself in the streets leading from this square and discover this medina filled with shops and art galleries. The souks of Essaouira are scattered along the wide blue and white streets. Retrace your steps as far as the Great Mosque: this is where Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Street begins, the main shopping street with Istiqlal Avenue running parallel to it. A constant bustle reigns in these two arteries, which are home to craftsmen's workshops and where, behind mounds of spices and vegetables, merchants harangue passers-by. Further on, the streets become narrower and the white lime gives way to an ochre coating. Many facades still have ironwork in the Andalusian and Portuguese style of the 18th century, and the ashlar portals are sculpted and decorated with zellij (small tiles). Near Mohammed el Gorry Street, the Siaghine alleyway houses the jewellers' souk, which has fallen into disuse, but which was once one of the most famous places for its Jewish jewellers. You can still find some beautiful pieces of gold and silver filigree, but contemporary jewellers only work in silver, most of the jewellery coming from elsewhere. The chance of your steps will make you discover many houses having sheltered glorious pages of the history by pointing out that the whim of the sultan had led him to build new villas for the Western ambassadors. At the corner of Mohammed Diouri Street, for example, one can discover a beautiful villa (which previously housed the French consulate) where Charles de Foucauld stopped in 1884. In the same street, in the place of the current Sqala cinema, was the House of Germany, more cramped and inside which the Prussian consul organized auctions of spoiled goods. An architectural heritage to be protected.