LAL QILA (RED FORT)

In 1638, Emperor Shah Jahan decided to transfer his kingdom from Agra to Delhi. Neglecting the Old Fort occupied by his great-grandfather Humayum to the east of the city, he built a new city bearing his name: Shahjahanabad. The Red Fort or Lal Qila became its strategic element. The looting committed in the 18th century by the Persian king Nadir Shah, then by the Afghan military leader Ahmed Shah and finally by the ruler of Bharatpur Jawhar Singh seriously damaged the interior of the building. After the Cipayes revolt in 1857, the British razed the adjoining districts in order to "clean up" old Delhi and ensure a no-man's land around the fort. Prefer a visit in the morning to reduce the crowds. If you go through Agra, its red fort is quite similar and better preserved.

You enter the fort through the Lahore gate topped by a gallery of small white domes. It is at its top that the first flag of independent India was hoisted on August 15, 1947. You will then cross a covered alley, the Chhatta Chowk, an old market today beset by souvenir stores. In the Nakkar Khana, or "courtyard of drums", musicians used to gather to welcome distinguished guests. The central alley of the vast park leads to the Diwan-i-am (hall of public audiences) where the emperor gathered his subjects. The place still hints at the luxury of yesteryear, even if looters have unfortunately deprived it of its richest ornaments.

Walk around the Diwan-i-am to reach the private quarters of the fort. This series of small palaces gives only a modest idea of the splendor of the Mughal court in the 17th century. The Rang Mahal (Palace of Colors) was the residence of the emperor's first wife. A canal fed with perfumed water brought some freshness to the building. The emperor stayed in the Khas Mahal (Private Palace) decorated with spectacular openwork screens. He received his distinguished guests in the Diwan-i-khas (private audience hall). The Diwan-i-khas contained the marvel of the Red Fort: the Peacock Throne, set with 26,733 precious stones. In 1738, the Persian king Nadir Shah seized it and the throne disappeared. To the right of this palatial complex stands the Mumtaz Mahal, residence of the favorite princesses. It houses an archaeological museum with collections of Mughal miniatures, manuscripts, weapons and royal clothes. The small mosque Moti Masjid (or mosque of the Pearl), on the left of the palaces, was used as place of prayer by the emperor Aurangzeb.