CHANDNI CHOWK

It's hard to imagine that in the ^19th century, this grand avenue stretching from the Red Fort to the New Delhi railroad line was a popular place for strolling, prized for its tranquillity and tall trees. Its name means "moonlit courtyard", in reference to the moon reflected in the central canal that once ran along the artery. At the center of the courtyard once stood a basin, replaced in 1950 by the Ghantaghar clock. Chandni Chowk is still Old Delhi's main thoroughfare, and its traffic jams are legendary. The rocambolic spectacle is ensured by the abundance of bicycle-rickshaws carrying kids out of school, handcarts overflowing with goods, porters with heavily laden heads, huge oxen with horns painted green and orange, hawkers squatting on the sidewalk and countless shoppers in search of a bargain. Chandni Chowk offers a crazy, motley vision of the whirlwind of life where thousands of people bustle about at a frenetic pace. For a leisurely tour of the district, come early in the morning or on Mondays, when the shops are closed. You'll then be able to appreciate the few buildings of interest and spot old houses with outdated charm, just waiting for a few million rupees to restore them to their former glory. But you'll miss out on the district's lively atmosphere. For a more serene approach, despite the hustle and bustle, it's best to enlist the services of a guide so as not to get lost in the maze of adjoining streets.

The original bazaar. The Chandni Chowk bazaar is the oldest in Delhi and was created at the same time as the construction of Shahjahanabad, the "new" capital desired by the emperor in 1639. Its design was entrusted to Jahanara, Shah Jahan's favorite daughter. She imagined a wide artery with a central canal leading to a basin where the moon was reflected. The merchants' stores were then built in the shape of a half-moon, but no trace of this remains. Originally, 1,560 stores lined the street, mainly silver merchants. The precious metal was used to make jewelry, and contributed to the growth of the market.

The street was also used for imperial processions, with the whole city thronging to see the emperor pass by. The last procession dates back to the visit of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra in 1903.

The organization of the bazaar. Chandni Chowk was divided into three sections.

From the Lahore Gate (entrance to the Red Fort) to Chowk Kotwali (near the Sikh temple), the section was called the Urdu Bazaar. It took its name from the language spoken by merchants from Pakistan. The bazaar was destroyed by the British during the Cipaye Revolt in 1857.

From Chowk Kotwali to Chandni Chowk (the central basin), the bazaar was called johri, which means lapidary in Urdu.

From Chandni Chowk to the Fatehpuri mosque, the bazaar was simply called Fatehpuri.

Chandni Chowk today. Delhi City Council has decided to give Chandni Chowk a new face, transforming it into a pedestrian zone in 2020. Despite the apparent chaos, the Chandni Chowk market is well organized. Each category of article has its own street or blocks. You'll find everything here, and it's easy to get lost in the adjoining lanes: books, records, sweets, restaurants, textiles, electronics, leather goods, groceries, convenience goods, jewelry, ball bearings... The Old Delhi market is one of the largest wholesale markets in the country. Nai Sarak wholesales stationery, envelopes and books; Lal Kuan supplies restaurants and hotels with equipment and utensils; Tilak Market specializes in industrial chemicals; Dariba is famous for its gold and silver jewelry; Khari Baoli, located behind the Fatehpuri mosque, is Asia's largest spice market... The main street is lined with religious edifices celebrating almost every faith: Jain and Hindu temples, Sikh gurudwara and mosques. The district often serves as a natural backdrop for mainstream film shoots, such as the Bollywood blockbuster From Chandni Chowk to China (2009) starring Akshay Kumar and Deepika Padukone. To the north of Chandni Chowk is the Town Hall, built in 1866, with its large garden and airy surroundings.

Glossary. To help you get to grips with Chandni Chowk and Old Delhi, a few basic terms may prove useful, especially if you need to ask for information.

Haveli refers to a fine residence built around a central courtyard. These houses were built by wealthy merchants. Poorly maintained, the havelis of Old Delhi often look sad, but you can still make out their former splendor. The best-preserved haveli is Chunnamal, near Nai Sarak and Chandni Chowk.

Kucha refers to a block of houses where the owners often shared the same trade. Maliwara kucha refers to the gardeners' quarter, or ballimaran kucha to the rowers' quarter (the Yamuna is not far away!).

Katra refers to a semi-enclosed area where people belonging to the same guild lived together. For example, a katra dedicated to fabrics, where weavers and merchants lived together.