PINK CITY BAZARS

A visit to the bazaars will take up a good part of your stroll through old Jaipur. Despite the deafening honking that punctuates the daily life of modern India, the buzzing alleys of the old city have retained the magic of the past. However, as in all tourist spots, you'll be approached by touts whose job it is to bring customers back to dubious stores. More than anywhere else in Rajasthan, beware of crooks. You can hire a local guide for your visit, for added peace of mind. The most interesting part of the bazaars stretches between Badi Chaupar and Chotti Chaupar to the north and Ajmeri Gate and Sanganeri Gate to the south. This big square block is bordered by Kishanpole Bazar Road to the west, Johari Bazar Road to the east, Tripolia Bazar Road to the north and Indira Bazar and Nehru Bazar Road to the south. If you're not too good at orientation, the symmetry of the old town can make you feel like you're going round in circles.

The block surrounded by the main arteries is divided into mini-neighborhoods according to a "grid" plan, just like in New York. Artisans are grouped by specialty within each district. With Jaipur's inscription on Unesco's World Heritage List, the municipality has undertaken extensive work, creating a visitor's trail of impeccably paved lanes. The path leads to the havelis of the wealthy merchants who occupy the heart of the district. These are painted yellow, the color that dominated Jaipur before the Maharajah had the buildings along the palace's main thoroughfares repainted pink, on the occasion of Prince of Wales Albert II's visit in 1876. Allow at least 3 hours for your visit. Finally, if you want to enjoy the liveliness of the district, start your tour after 10am.

The brassware district: start at the corner of Nehru Bazar Road and Chaura Rasta Road (the double-aisle street that bisects the district), opposite the Glocha cinema. This is one of the city's oldest cinemas. Head north (City Palace) for a few meters and take the first street on your left. You'll enter the Film Colony. Although film distributors left the area in the 1970s, it has retained its name. Today, the cinema trades have been replaced by drug wholesalers. Take the first street on your right, Nanga Thateron ki Gali. The regular sound of hammering on metal may guide you. The thatera community refers to copper, bronze and aluminum coppersmiths. For generations, they have been shaping everyday objects by hand. Originally, the thateras came from Ajmer and were invited to settle in Jaipur to sell their bowls, pots and matkas to the locals. The sorry state of many of the havelis shows how little these craftsmen were paid. Go up the street to the top, then turn left onto Thateron ka Rasta. Don't hesitate to enter the courtyards where the craftsmen work.

Rue des Cordeliers. Turn right at the end of Thateron ka Rasta. This alley used to be the rue des cordeliers. They stretched their threads of jute, cotton or hemp from one end of the street to the other, then twisted them to make ropes. Today, the cordeliers have been replaced by food shops (see "Street food tour").

The street of bangles. Maniharon ka Rasta is a street that links Tripolia Bazar to Nehru Bazar, crossing the entire district. This is where master craftsmen make lacquer bangles. This work is traditionally done by the Muslim community. Set up in front of their small stores, they perpetuate the traditional manufacture of bracelets, heating lacquer, a mixture of resin, wax and dyes. Craftsmen from 2 villages north of Jaipur settled in the royal city of Amber in the ^17th century. Traditionally, women bought lacquer bracelets for weddings or important religious celebrations, as they were synonymous with good luck.

Diwan Shivdin ki Haveli. Heading down Maniharon ka Rasta, you pass Mahavir Park, the only park in the district. Continue south to the next crossroads. On your right stands a beautiful haveli, typical of Jaipur. These houses, traditionally laid out around two courtyards (one for the men, the other for the women), were the homes of the nobility. In Jaipur's old town, havelis range from one courtyard to multiple courtyards, depending on the owner's noble rank and the size of his family. Turn right in front of the haveli and you're on Kishanpole Bazar Road.

The Kishanpole Bazaar. This wide artery links Ajmeri Gate in the south to Chhoti Chaupar in the north. The stores lining the avenue follow a format established in Chittorgarh in the ^15th century. They also feature an innovative detail: the pedestrian walkway is covered, protecting shoppers from the sun and rain. The covering of these aisles created a second, higher pedestrian walkway. It was also a gathering place, where royal or religious processions could be attended from a prominent position.

Johari Bazaar. To the east of the Pink City, Johari Bazar is a wide avenue linking Badi Chaupar (at the foot of the Hawa Mahal) to Sanganeri Gate. In Hindi, johari means jeweler. This is the district of glitz, rhinestones, 24-carat gold and semi-precious and precious stones. Beware, scams are legion here, and some unscrupulous merchants don't hesitate to pass off a worthless stone as a ruby or emerald. They mainly target tourists, both Indian and foreign, in the knowledge that they won't return once the deception has been discovered. Start your visit at Badi Chaupar. Before taking the avenue that leads to Sanganeri Gate, take a stroll to the east of the traffic circle, behind the temple. Here you'll find a number of small jewellers who occupy every alleyway in the district. If you go down the second street on your right, Haldiyon ka Rasta, you'll be able to pick up some low-value charms, if that's what you're looking for. Retrace your steps and cross the avenue. Lose yourself in the aisles of the Tripolia Bazar covered market for a while. There's no jewelry here, just cheap clothes and fabrics. This is the place to go for a good-quality lehanga (long skirt) or tie-and-dye. Then head south along Johari Bazar Road. High-end jewelry boutiques and local jewelers follow one another. Take the first street on your right, Gopalji ka Rasta, the street of wholesalers and exporters of precious and semi-precious stones. Each jeweler has his own specialty, his own designs, which he works in front of the customer. Together, they perpetuate the art of "thewa" - chased gold plates adorned with precious or semi-precious stone charms - and kundan - set ornaments - two styles unique to Rajasthan.

Johari Bazar's jewellers offer an infinite variety of jewelry, both precious and costume, in silver and gold. All the creations on display are original. But you can also buy stones and define the design with the jeweller. You'll be the proud owner of an exclusive creation! Please note, however, that unlike all other Indian bazaars, prices here are not negotiable. Shopkeepers advertise fixed prices.

Street-food tour. If you come early, before the shops open at 10 a.m., you can enjoy breakfast in the company of local shopkeepers and artisans. The best places to nibble are to the south, around the perimeter of the coppersmith district. Start your tour at the bottom of Chaura Rasta Road, in front of Sahi Ji's chai stall (on the right-hand sidewalk) on your way up to Chhoti Chaupar. It's easy to spot the shop, as it's packed at all hours with people enjoying a glass of sweet and spicy tea under the pipal. The shop opened in 1968 and quickly became an icon of the walled city. Go back 200 meters and don't miss the tiny GC Dairy store, barely larger than the refrigerated display case. Here you'll find milk-based sweets that Indians love. Just above, Samrat serves delicious samosas, kachuri (fried doughnuts stuffed with mashed lentils and spicy potatoes) and other popular Rajasthani breakfast snacks. Retrace your steps to the crossroads, cross the avenue and enter the district. At the next crossroads, on your right, stop at Radhe Kachori, renowned for serving Jaipur's finest hing ki kachori since 1963. In this case, the doughnut is drizzled with a yoghurt sauce and coriander chutney. Then head down the street on your right, to the jalebi stall next to the Shitla Mata temple. Come before 10 a.m. to enjoy them while they're still hot. On the same street, you'll find 7 or 8 stalls selling pani puri, thin shells made from bread dough, stuffed with chickpea purée and drizzled with spicy water. Don't try them if you've got a weak stomach! Continue along this same street to the crossroads with Thateron ka Rasta to sample a dal pakwaan. This specialty from Sindh (a province in southeastern Pakistan) consists of a deep-fried bread cake served with a thick dal. If you still have a little room, retrace your steps and turn left immediately. Take the street on your right, just before entering Kishanpole. A little further up is the famous Barthiya Bakery. Opened in 1950, this bakery was the first in the city to introduce pastry specialties such as Black Forest.

If you've got any strength left... Drive up Kishanpole to Chhoti Chaupar. Just before the traffic circle, on your left, is Nataniton ki Haveli, the largest haveli in the old town. It was built for the city's wealthiest salt merchants. It is a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal styles. In 1866, part of the building was donated by the family for conversion into a girls' school. The outbuildings are still inhabited by the descendants of the Natani family. Retrace your steps and pass under the 5-lobed arch into Indira Bazar. An ancient well is on your right. It was used to supply drinking water until the ^20th century, before the city modernized. A little further to the left, the Jagdish temple is built on the model of the two-storey havelis typical of Rajasthan. The architectural elements on the first floor are based on Art Deco elements in the facade and interior.