JUNAGARH FORT

In the ^16th century, the alliance with Emperor Akbar protected Bikaner from conflict. However, Maharaja Rai Singh (reigned 1571-1611) had this magnificent fort built with the spoils of his campaigns commanding the imperial armies. Built on a plain that was difficult to defend, and not on a mound like the other main Rajput fortresses (Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Chittorgarh...), the structure was reinforced with 37 bastions. Work began in 1589 and took 5 years to complete. In those days, it was common for maharajas to have a new palace built, more modern and luxurious than the old one. The royal family even built a third palace, Lalgarh, at the beginning of the ^20th century. Not much remains of the previous fort, which stood close to the Laxmi Narayan temple and of which a few traces can still be seen. The Junagarh fort occupies more than 5 hectares, in the center of what is today the town of Bikaner. Although there was nothing around at the time of its construction, a new town soon grew up around the royal quarters. The main interest of the visit lies in the wealth of palaces, buildings and halls lavishly decorated over the centuries.

After crossing the imposing kilometer-long red wall, you pass through two more gates, Daulat Pol and Suraj Pol. Next to Daulat Pol, you can see bas-reliefs of hands on the façade. They symbolize and pay homage to women who have committed sati. Wives joined their fallen husbands in death by throwing themselves into their pyres. This practice of sati, very common in Rajasthan, has fortunately been banned since 1987. The Suraj Pol gate is guarded by statues of two Rathore warriors, Jaimal and Patta, who died heroically defending the fortress of Chittorgarh against Mughal troops in 1568. The courtyards between the gates house small temples dedicated to various deities: Kalka, Ganesh and Devi dwara, Mother Nature. After passing through a final porch, you arrive on a large esplanade. The entrance is on your left, behind the metal curtains installed to keep the birds out. Then climb a narrow ramp into the palace's first courtyard.

In the center of the first courtyard, a small white marble pool provided the royal family with a bit of fresh air. For one of the sovereigns' greatest concerns was to protect themselves from the sun, their implacable enemy. Note the small fresco painted at the top of the wall to the right of the courtyard: when it arrived in the desert, the steam train seems to have been a major source of inspiration for local artists. The diwan-i-khas (hall of private audiences), built in 1631 by maharaja Karan Singh, is especially noteworthy for its gilding. Sovereigns received their distinguished guests here. But it's the next hall, Anup Mahal, that is the most beautiful room in the fort.

Begun under Karan Singh and completed by his successor Anup Singh, it gleams with gilding and mosaics of colored tiles and mirrors. This was the coronation hall of the maharajas, and a richly decorated royal throne can still be seen here.

After passing through the Badal Mahal (Palace of the Clouds), whose walls are entirely painted with clouds (perhaps to release a little coolness?) and rain scenes, you'll reach the temple of Hanuman, the leader of the monkey army in the Ramayana. It contains the famous nail boards so dear to all fakirs. The next rooms, Gaj Mandir, served as chambers for the sovereign - and queen - and are lavishly decorated with gilding, mirrors, sandalwood panelling and ivory inlays. From the adjacent terrace, you'll have a fine view of the entire fort and the city. The Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), on the upper floor, served as a retreat for the maharajas during heatwaves. A pulley enabled a servant placed outside to operate a huge fan for the comfort of the prince (and perhaps some princess...).

Ganga Singh had the most recent part of the fort, Ganga Niwas, converted into an opulent darbar (reception hall). It houses magnificent collections of weapons, yellowed photos (one of which shows Georges Clemenceau on a tiger hunt) and personal objects of the maharaja. Admire the wooden ceiling: the work of craftsmen specially flown in from Afghanistan. Last but not least, the adjoining hall holds a major surprise: a single-seater aircraft, probably one of the first to fly over India, given to Ganga Singh by the British government.

Two other halls, the Phool Mahal (Palace of Flowers) and the Chandra Mahal (Palace of the Moon), are normally closed to visitors. But for a few extra rupees, your guide can show you around. Decorated with numerous mirrors, they also feature murals and a statue of the sun god, Surya, mythical ancestor of the god Rama and the Rathore dynasty.

Prachina Cultural Centre & Museum, inside the fort. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission: Rs. 50 and Rs. 20 for a camera, Rs. 75 for a video camera (Tel: +91 151 252 5609). This small museum, housed in an annex to the palace, boasts an interesting collection of costumes, crockery, wall paintings, horse-drawn carriages and other minor objects. There's also a small restaurant on site.