OLD CITY

The old city of Bikaner is undoubtedly one of the most charming in Rajasthan. It is easy to get lost and to be surprised at the bend of its quiet lanes, especially populated with cows. If the city is still inhabited, one wonders where its inhabitants are hiding. Inside the thousand havelis that have been counted here and which testify to the past wealth of the city. It is possible to make a 2 to 3 hours tour to admire the most beautiful of them, visit its main temples (Laxminath and Seth Bhandasar) and browse the small markets or the tailors' district. The easiest way to avoid getting lost is to hire a local guide.

Start at Goga Gate, not to be confused with Kote Gate, the gate near the railroad. On your left is a haveli with colorful murals. Head towards Dhada Chowk to see the Dan Ji Kothari Ki Haveli. From there, head to Rangri Chowk, for the Rampuria haveli, perhaps the most famous of them all with its imposing silhouette and green shutters. It also houses the Bhanwar Niwas Hotel. Built in 1927, it evokes the opulence of the local merchant classes. Retrace your steps to Banthio ka Chowk, then Mohta Chowk to the exit of the fort (north) and Jassusar Gate. Along the way, you will admire other havelis, sometimes with amazing facades. Don't miss a visit to the sari merchants, in an alleyway leading from Kote Gate.