TEMPLES - WEST GROUP

Khajuraho, better known under the name of Jejakbhukti in the Middle Ages, then Bundelkhand from the ^14th century, was the capital of the Chandela dynasty in the ^10th century. Respecting the tradition, they decorated their palace with temples. One could count 85 of them and only 25 still testify of this sumptuous time. From 1500, the empire of Chandela began to decline and the temples fell into oblivion. Most of them are made of sandstone and they mark the culmination of Hindu temple construction in Madhya Pradesh. The origin of the erotic sculptures, which forged the identity of Khajuraho, remains a mystery, but they now attract visitors from all over the world. By the way, you should come very early in the morning when the temple opens to avoid the crowds, especially during the tourist season.

Varaha Temple. It is in fact a small sanctuary dedicated to one of the avatars of Vishnu, the boar. Standing on a platform, it rests on 14 pillars and dates back to about 900, which makes it one of the oldest monuments in Khajuraho.

Lakshmana Temple. The construction of this temple was undertaken by the Chandela king Yashovarman, around 930. It took no less than twenty years to complete. The temple is built on a large platform and contains all the main elements: ardhamandapa (entrance porch), mahamandapa (hall), antarapa (intermediate space between the sanctuary and the other rooms of the temple) and garbhagriha (shrine). The sikhara (tower) is protected by many smaller sikhara. The outer walls are decorated with two tiers of carvings including divine representations and erotic scenes. Inside, the door of the sanctuary is decorated with several representations of Vishnu and one with four arms stands in its center.

Kandariya Temple. This is the largest of all the temples in Khajuraho. Built between 1025 and 1050, it marks the height of the Chandela era. It is dedicated to Shiva, and its 31 meters high sikhara , like the linga, symbolizes this god in a phallic way. Its symmetrical proportions, its magnificent carved ornaments and its architectural complexity make it one of the most beautiful temples of the site. The friezes on the outer base show elephants, horses, warriors, dancers, acrobats and musicians. The temple has 872 statues of about 1 meter high, each with numerous erotic representations, among the most detailed and acrobatic of the site! Inside, the shrine houses a statue of Shiva with four arms, surrounded by Brahma on his right and Vishnu on his left.

Mahadev Temple. Just on the right of the Kandariya temple, this small temple in a rather bad state of conservation is especially remarkable for its statues of sardula (mythological figure half beast, half man) caressing a lion.

Jagadambi Temple. On the right of the platform. Originally, this temple was dedicated to Vishnu, then turned into a place of worship for Parvati, his sister, whose representation is preserved in the inner sanctum. Its simpler structure and less elaborate ornamentation suggest that it was built after 1025.

Chitragupta Temple. The only temple dedicated to Surya, the sun god, in Khajuraho. Its structure is comparable to that of the Jagadambi temple: garbhagriha, mahamandapa and lateral transepts, ardhamandapa, but no ambulatory inside. It is nevertheless much more imposing. Its outer walls have some of the finest erotic carvings and an eleven-headed Vishnu placed in a niche on the southern façade. The shrine houses a representation of Surya riding a chariot drawn by seven horses.

Parvati Temple. This small temple originally dedicated to Vishnu now contains a representation of Gauri (another name for the goddess Parvati) riding an iguana.

Vishvanath Temple. This temple dedicated to Shiva is one of the most beautiful achievements of Khajuraho. It was surrounded by four small shrines of which only two have survived. Inside, an inscription refers to two linga, one made of emerald, the other of stone, which would have been sheltered by the Vishvanath temple. The Nandi shrine resting on twelve pillars houses a huge ox, the vehicle of Shive, 2.20 meters long.

Pratapeswar Temple. This brick and mortar temple dates from the early ^19th century. It houses a small black shivalinga.

Matangesvara Temple. Located outside the garden, near the entrance, it is the only temple still in activity among the group of temples of Khajuraho. Devotees come to prostrate themselves before a 2.5 meter high linga. Its much less elaborate construction suggests that it is more recent than the other temples of the western group.

Sound and Light: at nightfall, a Sound and Light show is proposed, as for all the sites maintained by the Archaeological Department of India. The show lasts one hour. Chairs are installed in front of a lawn dominating most of the temples of the site. Some rather sketchy lighting illuminates the temples for very short periods while a soundtrack recounts the history of Khajuraho and the building of its temples. The content seemed rather poor and nothing explains the presence of erotic statues on the temples. Considering the high price required at the entrance, you won't get your rupees back, especially if your understanding of English is tenuous...