RUINS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NALANDA

The site

A wide central alley running north-south separates the monasteries (viharas) to the east from the temples (chaiyas) to the west. Here are some of the most remarkable buildings.

Sariputra Stupa (site no. 3). The most imposing stupa of all. Located at the southern end, this enormous paving stone several dozen meters high is the result of seven layers of construction undertaken at different periods, giving rise to this incredible architecture. The original stupa is drowned in the mass. The surrounding towers and stupa are flanked by niches depicting events in Buddha's life. Exterior staircases lead to the very top, from where you can better appreciate the sheer scale of the site.

The monasteries of Sites 1A and 1B. Not far from the Sariputra Stupa, two monasteries. The main doors to the north lead to a wide veranda whose roof rested on pillars. The bases can still be seen. The monks' cells are scattered around the four sides and built on two storeys. In one corner of the courtyard, the octagonal well remains as it was. An ingenious water supply system still runs through the monastery's alleys. The staircase leads to what was probably once a pulpit from which professors addressed their students. A small chapel houses the remains of a Buddha statue. A little further north, you'll find nine other monasteries built on the same plan.

The temple on site no. 2. It is distinguished from the others by its stone structure and 200 sculptures inspired by Hindu mythology.

Visit

You can hire the services of one of the English-speaking guides waiting at the entrance to the site. For Rs. 100, you'll be treated to a one-hour tour at a leisurely pace. If you opt for this option, make sure your guide is fluent in Shakespeare's language. Some guides simply recite a lesson learned by heart, and are incapable of answering your questions. They won't teach you any more than the explanatory signs do... We highly recommend guide Yadunandan Singh (+91 980 146 7845): a real pro who speaks perfect English and has been in the business for twenty years. He works every day. Ask for him at the entrance, or give him a call if you don't find him at the ticket office.

Brochures are on sale for a few rupees at the ticket office. The buildings planted in the middle of the well-kept gardens are made of red brick.