RUMTEK MONASTERY

This beautiful and colorful monastery is the seat of the Gyalwa Karmapa, leader of the Kagyupa order of Tibetan Buddhism (the "black caps"). In the Dharma Chakra Center, one can admire the golden stupa where the ashes of the ^16th Gyalwa Karmapa are preciously preserved, in a box set with precious stones. The visit continues with the Karma Shri Naland Institute of Buddhist Studies, housed in a sumptuous building. Early risers can attend the puja which takes place every day from 7 to 8 am and from 4 to 5 pm. On the third floor, one can visit the prayer room and the library. From this room, the view on Gangtok is superb.

If you go to the monastery at noon, all the buildings will be closed because it is the lunch time of the monks! You can nevertheless observe them through the window, all gathered in the common room for their unique meal of the day (during the summer period). The Tibetan monks live spiritually.

A monastery under high surveillance. Guarded by armed police, this monastery is in the middle of a long spiritual controversy. It is the seat of the Karmapa, spiritual leader of the school of black-capped lamas. Since the death of the ^16th Karmapa in 1993, the struggle between two rival candidates has become increasingly fierce. The main contender is called Ogyen Trinie Dorje, who fled Tibet in 2000 and settled in Dharamsala (Himachal Pradesh), failing to take up his post in Rumtek. Indeed, he is formally prohibited by the Indian government from coming to Rumtek, so as not to upset the Chinese authorities. The rival candidate, Thaye Dorje, has settled in Kalimpong (West Bengal). While waiting for the enthronement of the new Karmapa, the black hat topped with a ruby, worn by the Karmapa during ceremonies, is carefully kept in a locked safe, to prevent it from flying away to heaven! Only the true Karmapa is able to wear it.

Just 2 kilometers away is the smaller and very quietRumtek Old Monastery . Two puja are held there every day: the first one at dawn and the second one just after sunset. Rumtek is a very pleasant place. Within the monastery grounds, you will find hotels, guesthouses and small restaurants. Far from the crowd, you can recharge your batteries or indulge in meditation and contemplation before continuing your journey. That said, when you are there, you feel good and you don't really want to leave..