MAN SINGH PALACE

It was built between 1486 and 1517 by Raja Rao Mansingh of the Tomar dynasty before the emperor Aurangzeb transformed it into a political prison. The 24 m high external wall is relayed by many round towers crowned with cupolas. Formerly, it was entirely covered with blue, green and yellow mosaics drawing ducks, peacocks, fishes or trees.

Facing the cliff, the main gate is called Hatia Haur or Elephant Gate. Don't miss the sunset when the walls take on a deep ochre and blue color. Every evening from October to June, there is a sound and light show in the amphitheater at 8:30 pm (in English).

The palace consists of two large courtyards richly carved and surrounded by apartments. The centuries have stripped the rooms of their former splendor: sumptuous Persian carpets fell from the ceiling, hanging from large rings still visible. The notes of music constantly rose in the air and the women of the court hid behind the openwork walls to listen or learn to play. Underneath the fort are two underground floors cleverly illuminated by openings in the stone. The two hypostyle rooms are circular and quite impressive. One thinks that they must have been ideal to find refuge during the hot summer days.

You will discover the "pool" and the swing room equipped with an intercom system. The infamous Aurangzeb turned it into a dungeon and after confining his father Shah Jahan and his sister at the Red Fort in Agra, he locked up his brother Murad here before having him executed.

Going out, a little higher, the Karan Mandir, Jehangir and Shah Jahan palaces are less well preserved but nevertheless open to the public. As for the Jauhar Tank, it is especially interesting when one knows that it was the seat of the mass immolation (jauhar) of Rajput women before the capture of the fort by Mamluk Iltutmish in 1232. The pond is fed by the waters of Suraj Kund, the citadel pond that cured Suraj Sen of leprosy in the ^8th century.

Near the cliff to the east, the two Sas Bahu (Mother-in-law and Daughter-in-law) temples completed in 1093 are dedicated to the god of balance Vishnu. The size of these temples reflects the position of the daughter-in-law in relation to her mother-in-law. Richly sculpted, they compete in beauty.

One is surprised by the massive structure of Teli Ka Mandir which culminates at 30 m. Product of the meeting between the Dravidian world and the Indo-Aryan world, this temple is also dedicated to the god Vishnu as attested by the important eagle Garuda at the entrance. Opposite, the Gurudwara Data Bandhi Chhod commemorates Hargobind Sahib, the sixth Sikh Guru who was imprisoned here for more than two years by Emperor Jehangir. Upon his release, he also demanded the release of 52 Hindu kings. Impressed by the Guru's charisma, Jehangir gave in.

At the foot of the citadel, the Gujari Mahal built by raja Mansingh for his queen Mrignayini now houses the Archaeological Museum, where some antiquities dating back to the ^first century are displayed.

Tansen, the great Indian musician described by Akbar as one of the nine jewels of his court, is buried in Gwalior. His mausoleum, of great sobriety, is characteristic of early Mughal architecture. Next door, the superb marble and sandstone mausoleum houses the remains of the Afghan prince Ghaus Mohammed.