FATEHPUR SIKRI CITADELLE

The fortified citadel of Fatehpur Sikri is an absolutely unique architectural ensemble listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The Mughal emperor Akbar made Fatehpur Sikri his capital after the prophecy of the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti promising him three sons came true. In addition to a magnificent mosque outside the walls, Akbar built three palaces in the citadel, one for each of his favorite wives: a Hindu, a Muslim and a Christian. Numerous other buildings in the citadel rival each other in finesse of execution. The capital was built on a hilltop, with the soldiers' quarters and the royal retinue spread out at its feet. You can still see the double wall stretching for hundreds of meters around the imperial city. Whatever time of day you pass by, you can't fail to be impressed by this fantastic heritage forged in red sandstone.

Access to the citadel is usually via the Agra Gate, located to the northeast of the city of Fatehpur Sikri, a little further up the road after the bus stop. This is where you begin your tour. You can climb up to the citadel on foot, or take the shuttle bus from the visitors' parking lot to the site. It's just beyond the Agra Gate, on the left. The shuttle leaves every 20 minutes or so. There is a charge for this service, but it's a modest one. There are two entrances to the citadel where you can buy your entrance ticket. The first is close to the mosque, while the second, a little further on, in front of the old administrative buildings, allows you to visit the citadel in the order indicated by the audio guide.

The site of Fatehpur Sikri was already occupied before Akbar chose it as his capital. An important collection of 1,000-year-old Jain statues and the foundations of a temple were found during excavations undertaken in 2000. It would appear that the area was a religious and cult site. Archaeological excavations revealed the existence of a fortress built by the Sikarwar Rajputs. The latter controlled the region intermittently with Muslims from Persia between the ^7th and ^16th centuries.

Diwan-i-Am: When entering the Agra gateway, the Diwan-i-Am is the first building you see. Akbar, seated on his throne, held public audiences here, dispensed justice and listened to his subjects. Those condemned to death would breathe their last here, crushed under the weight of the royal elephant. The other half of society, the women, were content to observe the proceedings discreetly from behind the jalis (small stone windows) on either side.

Diwan-i-Khas: Leaving the Diwan-i-Am, at the end of the courtyard on the right stands the Diwan-i-Khas, or private audience hall. In fact, the room occupies the entire height of the building. In the center stands a large, lavishly carved column inspired by Gujarati architecture, with thirty-six scrolled corbels supporting a capital from which four arms radiate. The lower part of the column features scriptures symbolizing each of the world's religions. According to legend, Akbar, on a circular throne placed on the capital, presided over the council with his four ministers flanking the end of the four arms!

Ankh Michauli: This is the treasury, located right next to the Diwan-i-Khas. It housed the Empire's money in stone safes. One of these caches has been left exposed in one of the room's corners.

The Pachisi courtyard and the Panch Mahal: the courtyard you're standing in is the Pachisi courtyard, the name given to a game played by Akbar. Note the cross-shaped checkerboard in the center of the courtyard. Legend has it that the emperor used female slaves as pawns. To the west of this courtyard, opposite the Diwan-i-Am, stands the Panch Mahal, a pyramid-shaped palace surmounted by a chhatri. Originally, openwork stone panels concealed the interior and its 176 columns. It is assumed that this palace was intended for the women of the court.

Alup Tanao and the Daulat Khana: continuing southwards, you reach the ornamental pool known as Anup Talao. Four bridges lead to the central platform where the singer Tansen, accompanied by musicians, used to perform. Akbar could listen to him from his private apartments in the Daulat Khana (Abode of Fortune). On the first floor, the smallest room housed the royal library, and the emperor slept slightly higher up in the left-hand corner.

Jodha Bai Palace and Birbal Palace: to the west of the ornamental garden, this is the most imposing of the entire citadel. Its particularly well-guarded entrance also served as access to the harem. The palace is said to have been built for Akbar's favorite Hindu wife, Jodha Bai. The rooms were sumptuously decorated with silks and carpets. The harem is the U-shaped building opposite the palace. It housed Akbar's 200 servants, who lived there permanently.

The Birbal palace has aged better, and the richness of its wall paintings can be admired. It is said to have been the residence of one of Akbar's favorite ministers.