VARANASI GHATS

The ghats are the steps leading down to the sacred river for ablutions and offerings. They run continuously from north to south along 8 km of riverbank. You have to get up early (4:30 a.m. in summer, 6 a.m. in winter) to witness the first baths of the faithful in the Ganges. The Ganges is sacred to Hindus: immersing oneself in it washes away sins, and scattering one's ashes in it, within a week of death, leads to liberation of the soul from the world of phenomena(moksha).
The best way to discover this unique spectacle is to climb into a boat at sunrise and sail along the river (count around 300 Rs per hour for 2 people, negotiate firmly before departure: it's possible to book cruises in the city's restaurants, to join a group and thus reduce costs). Diverse architecture, pilgrims performing ablutions, offerings to the river in the form of flowers(puja), collective yoga classes, babas meditating, young people diving and swimming, buffaloes taking a dip, but sometimes floating bodies too... It's along the river that the bodies of the faithful are cremated, for all to see. Some prefer to cruise the Ganges at nightfall, when small lamps drift along the river, illuminating it. The constant ringing of bells and the scent of incense create a slight, almost mystical hypnosis. Every evening at dusk, the Ganga Aarti ceremony takes place on several ghats (Kedar Ghat, Assi Ghat, etc.), but it is on the main ghat (Dasashwamedh Ghat) that it is most spectacular. Although quite touristy, it is nonetheless enchanting and spiritually charged. Watch the multitude of overflowing boats gather in front of the ghat to witness the ritual. At the end of the ceremony, you can make a donation to collect an offering of flowers and a candle. From the banks of the Ganges, light your candle, pray to the goddess Ganga, then set down and float your boat on the sacred river for your wish to be granted...
Although they stretch a little further south and north, the landmarks are the main ghats: Assi Ghat in the south, the Main Ghat (Dasashwamedh Ghat) in the center, and the Burning Ghat (Manikarnika Ghat) in the north. If you're staying in the center or north, take an auto-rickshaw towards Assi Ghat to start the tour from the south. Let's go up the ghats, starting from the south:

TheAssi Ghat is particularly important as it marks the point where the Assi River meets the Ganges. Devotees come here to worship a lingam of Shiva, and in the evening the ghat comes alive with street performers. The Tulsi Ghat commemorating the poet Tulsa Das follows, then the Bachraj Ghat with its three Jain temples, and theAnandmayee Ghat. Next come the Shivala Ghat, the Dandi Ghat, used by ascetics, and the popular Hanuman Ghat. The Harischandra Ghat, dedicated to cremations, is one of Varanasi's oldest. It is used more by the wealthier classes. It is nevertheless smaller and less important than the main Burning Ghat. The Kedar Ghat, featuring a temple dedicated to Shiva, is popular with South Indians. The Mansowar Ghat , followed by the particularly photogenic Munshi Ghat, offers access to Bangali Tola, with its galis, small shops, temples and cafés - the ideal place to take a refreshing break if you're walking along the riverbank.

The Dasashwamedh Ghat is the main, most colorful and busiest ghat, where the all-important Ganga Aarti takes place in the evening. This magnificent ceremony pays homage to the goddess Ganga. Pilgrims flock to the ghat to secure a special place, while others gaze at her from the boats. The ghat's name commemorates the fact that it was here that Brahma is said to have sacrificed(medh) ten(das) horses(aswa). It's an ideal place to stroll and watch the comings and goings of pilgrims, despite all the touts (boat, store, massage and even ear cleaning). The ceremony is conducted by several clerics who perform the sacred rituals amid a haze of incense and the tinkling of bells.

The Man Mandir Ghat is also one of the city's oldest: the palace, an architectural marvel, was built in 1585 by the Maharaja of Amber. Nearby is the Jantar Mantar, an astronomical observatory on the top floor of a building subsequently built in 1710 by Jai Singh of Jaipur, on the roof of the palace! Entrance to this monument costs Rs. 300, but it's best to observe it and get a bird's-eye view from the terrace of the nearby Dolphin Restaurant. Next up is the Meer Ghat, followed by the Lalita Ghat, which is easily recognizable as it has been completely renovated, in stark contrast to all the other ghats. It boasts a magnificent Nepalese temple, the Nepali Mandir: its exterior carvings feature tantric figures common to both Shiva and Vajrayana Buddhism.

You then arrive at the main cremation ghat: the Manikarnika Ghat. As with the other cremation ghat, photography is strictly forbidden here, out of respect for the deceased and their families. The atmosphere, especially at dusk, is indescribable. You'll be left alone as long as you show respect. As soon as you arrive, you'll probably be directed to the Birla Ashram. Why not? There's no obligation to follow your "benefactor", but this building overlooking the pyres is an ideal place for observation. Be careful: if you're asked for money for the wood used in cremations, don't give it away! You'll learn to recognize the protagonists of the Dantesque scenes unfolding before your eyes, the role and function of each in this production from another time, with its unchanging scenario, and whose images will remain engraved in your memory for as long as Shiva's fire crackles, i.e. forever! A donation will be suggested to you, but without too much insistence. During your stroll along the sacred waters, you're sure to have made a few macabre discoveries: a simple cow for the lucky ones, a sadhu or a child drifting away for the others. Those who die of snakebite are also exempt from cremation. Their souls need not be purified. In contrast, the remains of ordinary mortals are carried by a procession of men to the Ganges, where they are bathed for a few hours before cremation. A red shroud indicates that the deceased is a woman, white for men and yellow for the elderly, regardless of gender. Wealthier families pay up to Rs. 8,000 for the sandalwood pyre (the most expensive), and all or most of it goes up in smoke after three hours. The ashes and smoking limbs are then thrown into the Ganges. Death becomes a natural thing for those who contemplate this scene, and the reality of the body goes up in smoke. In the evening, a few ghats from the pyre, the elders chat on the stairs or small platforms. They discuss the Ramayana under the authority of an erudite Brahmin, who sometimes lets himself be interrupted by singing accompanied by percussion, telling the story of Rama and Sita. A well dedicated to Shiva can be seen next. The pretty Tarkeswar Mahadev Temple, which sinks year after year along the riverbank, is a good landmark. TheRam Ghat, a little further on, was built by the Maharaja of Jaipur. The Panchganga Ghat is aptly named, as five(panch) rivers are supposed to meet here: the Ganges, the Saraswati, the Gyana, the Kirana and the Dhutpapa. At Trilochana Ghat, much further north, you'll see a Shiva temple and end your journey upstream at Raja Ghat. As you look up into the Varanasi sky, you'll see kite battles being waged by children from small boats.