ANEGUNDI

Anegundi is a small walled village located 5 km east of Hampi, on the opposite bank of the Tungabhadra. It is possible to cross the river by boat and even by coracle at certain times of the day. If you are not staying there, it is more convenient to have a motorized vehicle to access it. You can either cross the river at Hampi and join the main road north of Virupapur Gaddi (you will then pass the foot of the Hanuman temple); or go down to Kamalapuram and go north on the road to the Vittala temple. At the junction for the temple, go straight ahead and take a small boat to cross the river.

The village is part of the Unesco World Heritage Site but unlike Hampi, it has retained a very authentic soul. Protected by a double wall of fortifications, it preserves traces of habitation well before those of Hampi. It is located on a rocky plateau 3 billion years old. Prehistoric paintings testify to the occupation of the plateau at least 1,500 years BC. Anegundi also occupies a very important place in Hindu mythology. The site would correspond to the kingdom of the monkeys Kishkindha mentioned in the Ramayana. The hill of Anjanadri located just beside is the birthplace of the monkey god Hanuman. The hill of Rishimukh saw the meeting between Hanuman and Rama, when Rama went in search of his wife kidnapped by Ravana. Hanuman joined Rama in his quest and helped him to reach Sri Lanka by building a bridge between Rameswaram and the island.

Anegundi, which in the Kannada language means "elephant enclosure", served as a refuge for the elephant horde of the Vijayanagara army in the 14th century. The village has many ruins that bear witness to its glorious association with the Vijayanagara Empire, including temples, the fort and an ancient palace. The village is undergoing renovation, and several fine guesthouses have recently opened. Anegundi is an excellent base for visiting Hampi, but you will have to cross the river to discover the ruins.

There are several sites to discover on this side of the river.

Nava Brindavan. This is a sacred place that houses the tombs (brindavan) of nine madhwa saints. The madhwa belong to a sub-caste of Hindu Brahmins. The tombs are arranged in a circle with the tomb of the saint Vyasa in the center who was the president of the Vijayanagar University. The saints did not all live at the same time, and the oldest tomb dates from the early 14th century. A yellow line painted on the ground surrounds the brindavan and it is forbidden to cross it. Located on a small island below Anegundi, you will have to take a coracle to get there.

Durga Temple. This temple, where the Vijayanagara kings went to pray before a battle, is located on a hill near Anegundi. Its particularity is a tree where the faithful hang colored cloth bags to see their wishes granted. But don't stop at this small temple! A small sign indicates a path leading to other temples quite original... Don't hesitate to ask on the spot if you don't find them. We first go through the door of the old fort of Anegundi where many langurs are lounging. An old well is the first curiosity. On the right after the well is a small cave dedicated to Ganesh. Walk around the temple through the rocks to reach the bell. By continuing the signposted path, one arrives at the top of the hill: an exceptional panorama is offered to you, with in bottom the Hanuman Temple and the Pampa Sarovar, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful sights of Hampi. And it is not finished! A path down into the rocks leads to a shrine called Snake House, a small altar dedicated to the house of the Cobra.

Pampa Sarovar. This reservoir is one of the 5 sacred lakes of India, just like Pushkar in Rajasthan or Narayan sarovar in Gujarat. It is here that Pampa, an incarnation of Parvati, came in penance to show her devotion to Shiva. Lotuses cover the surface of the lake and give a striking effect when in bloom. Two temples, one dedicated to Lakshmi and the other to Shiva face the temple.

Hanuman Temple Ajanti. This white temple can be seen from far. And for good reason, it is built at the top of the hill of Anjanadri also called Anjaneya. It is at this place that the Ramayana places the birth of the god Hanuman. The place is particularly sacred for the devotees of Hanuman and those of Rama. The Ramayana is recited continuously by pundit who take turns. You can sit next to them, and listen to them. Hanuman is represented on a rock and a small sanctuary is dedicated to Rama. The view from the top is absolutely magnificent. You dominate the valley of the Tungabhadra river which meanders lazily between the pink granite rocks. The plantations of sugar cane, the rice plantations cut of their green ardent in the landscape. To reach the temple, you will have to climb 570 steps barefoot or in socks. The stairs are now covered with a grid to prevent possible attacks by monkeys, omnipresent on the site. Your shoes are to be left at the bottom of the temple. Bring water and prefer to climb at an early hour or at sunset. The access to the hill is 2 km west of Anegundi.