HOYSALESWARA TEMPLE

With its massive, compact appearance, the Hoysaleswara Temple, also known as Halebeedu Temple, is one of the most beautiful temples in the country. Set on a stone platform just a few steps high, it actually comprises two "twin temples" of similar size and structure. One is dedicated to Hoysaleswara, the king, and the other to Shantaleswara, the queen. It is unique for the wealth of exquisitely carved friezes that adorn its outer walls, requiring the skills of a goldsmith. There is no other equivalent of this artistic achievement anywhere in the country. Construction of the temple began in 1121, as attested by a stele found nearby, and was completed 80 years later. It is dedicated to Shiva, but also includes elements dedicated to Vishnu and Shakti.

Context. As its name suggests, the temple pays homage to the Hoysala dynasty, which ruled from the ^10th to the ^14th century over an empire that roughly corresponds to the present-day contours of Karnataka. The temple was erected during the reign of Vishnuvardhana, at the same time as Belur. Curiously, it pays homage to the lineage of rulers, although it was apparently financed by a Shiva sect, which was very powerful in Halebid at the time. This may be explained by the fact that Vishnuvardhana had converted to Hinduism on acceding to the throne - he was a Jain - and that the citizens of the capital of the Hoysala empire, Halebid at the time, wanted to mark the occasion. Be that as it may, the dynasty left its mark on South Indian history, promoting the arts, architecture and the development of the Hindu religion. In the early ^14th century, Halebid was sacked by Muslim invaders from the north. The temple fell into neglect and partial ruin.

Exterior. The temple is actually twofold, consisting of two independent structures linked by two sanctuaries. The first temple is dedicated to Shiva and the king(hoysaleswara) and the second to Parvati and the queen(shantaleswara). The interplay of projections and recesses in the walls gives the temple a complex architectural appearance. The temple is placed on a jagati (platform), a fancy in vogue at the time. The walls are surmounted by two cornices, one at the intersection of the wall and the roof and the other about a metre lower. Between the two cornices, a series of aediculae, or mini-sanctuaries, have been carved. Starting at the base, eight series of superimposed friezes run the full 200-meter length of the façade. The lowest features charging elephants representing strength and stability. Above, a frieze of lions represents courage. The frieze of horses symbolizing speed is framed by decorative floral friezes. The sixth frieze evokes the epic tales of Hinduism, combining the Mahâbâratha, the Râmâyana and the Bhagavad Gîtâ. The scenes are interspersed with various unrelated representations. The frieze above depicts makara, mythological animals that are half mammal, half fish. Finally, the eighth and last frieze depicts swans, symbolizing the elevation of knowledge to the heavens. Between the friezes and the lower cornice, the main sculptures number 240. The "reading" begins at the temple's southern entrance, with a dancing Ganesh to the left of the door. The tour ends with another statue of Ganesh, the elephant god. Don't miss the lintels of the south and east doors, which feature the temple's finest carved frescoes. Finally, if you feel like it, you can have fun comparing the animals on the friezes, and see that no two are exactly alike.

Interior. The interior of the temple is much plainer and more sober, with a classic shape. The temple has four entrances, one to the north (today's main entrance), one to the south and two to the east. Access to the temple was from the east, as evidenced by the mandapa (hall) that precedes each of the sanctuaries. The two temples are linked by the mandapa, giving the impression of a huge hall. The ceilings are supported by a double row of turned pillars running from north to south. These massive pillars also bore the weight of the vimana (tower above the sanctuary), which has now disappeared. Only the pillars are decorated, and more specifically the capitals of the 4 pillars facing each of the sanctuaries. These are adorned with madanika, young virgins. Each sanctuary houses a lingam, the symbolic representation of the god Shiva.

Pavilions. Each of the eastern entrances is preceded by a pavilion built on the jagati. They house a nandi, the ox sacred vehicle of Shiva.

The Garuda pillar. Planted on the temple grounds to the south of the temple, this pillar is extremely rare. Garudas were bodyguards devoted body and soul to the king and queen. They travelled with the royal court and were expected to commit suicide on the death of their master. This pillar depicts heroes with knives, cutting off their own heads. The Kannara inscription pays homage to Kuruva Lakshma, the garuda of King Veera Ballala II. He killed his wife and bodyguards and committed suicide on the death of his master.

Archaeological museum. Adjacent to the temple, you can visit this small museum featuring beautiful sculptures from the ^12th and ^13th centuries found in the Halebid area.