BRIHADEESWARA TEMPLE

Formerly known as the Peruvudaiyar temple, the marvelous Brihadeeswara temple, dedicated to Shiva, is a masterpiece of Chola architecture. Along with the Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple in Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavatesvara temple in Kumbakonam, it has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1987.

Known locally as Thanjai Periya Kovil, it was built entirely of granite rock during the reign of Raja Raja ^I in the ^10th century. It sits amid imposing fortifications protected by a moat. The vimana, the sanctuary's tower, is taller than the gopuram - a rarity in South India - and measures over 65 metres. It is the highest vimana in South India. The sikhara, the dome at the top of the vimana, weighs 25 tonnes. It is octagonal and rests on a single 80-tonne granite block. The outer walls feature sculptures of Krishna, Narasimha and other deities, as well as the 108 poses of Bharatanatyam, the classical dance of South India. The sanctuary houses one of the country's tallest shivalingas: 3.70 metres high. It is watched over by an impressive monolithic statue of Nandi, Shiva's vehicle, located beneath a mandapa (pavilion) at the temple entrance. Floor-to-ceiling Chola frescoes were discovered in 1931 on the walls of the sanctuary, along the circumambulatory path. The painters used natural pigments. These Chola frescoes, largely inspired by Shivaism, were restored in the 2000s. Unfortunately, these rooms are closed to visitors. Smaller temples dedicated to Ganesh and Murugan, the two sons of Shiva, date from the Nayak period. Their sculptures are particularly fine. An inscription on the north wall of the enclosure gives a detailed account of the people employed at the time by the temple. It includes over 600 names, including priests, lamp-lighters, laundry workers, tailors, jewelers, potters, carpenters, sacred umbrella bearers, dancers, singers, musicians, accountants...

In February, around Mahashivratri, the site hosts the Brahan Natyanjali festival. Major Indian classical dance artists come from all over the country to perform their repertoire for 10 days.

The temple is often crowded with pilgrims and tourists. You'll need to leave your shoes and bag at the cloakroom for a handful of rupees. It's best to come early in the morning if you want to visit in peace and quiet.