BRIHADEESWARA TEMPLE

Formerly called Peruvudaiyar temple, the wonderful Brihadeeswara temple, dedicated to Shiva, is a masterpiece of Chola architecture. It is part of the Great Living Temples of the Chola period inscribed on the Unesco heritage list since 1987, along with the Gangaikonda and Airavatesvara temples, located between Thanjavur and Kumbakonam.

Known locally as Thanjai Periya Kovil, it was built entirely of granite rock during the reign of Raja Raja I in the 10th century. It sits amidst imposing fortifications protected by a moat. The vimana, the tower of the sanctuary, is higher than the gopuram - a rare occurrence in South India - and measures more than 65 meters. It is moreover the highest vimana of the south of India. The sikhara, the dome at the top of the vimana, weighs 25 tons. It is octagonal and rests on a single granite block of 80 tons. The outer walls feature sculptures of Krishna, Narasimha and other deities, as well as sculptures of the 108 poses of Bharatanatyam, the classical dance of South India. The shrine contains one of the largest shivalingas in the country: 3.70 meters high. It is watched over by an impressive monolithic statue of Nandi, the vehicle of Shiva, located under a mandapa

Unfortunately these rooms are closed to visitors. Small temples dedicated to Ganesh and Murugan, the two sons of Shiva, are later: they date from the Nayak period. Their sculptures are particularly fine.

An inscription on the north wall of the enclosure gives a detailed account of the people employed at the time by the temple. It includes more than 600 names, including priests, lamp lighters, laundry workers, tailors, jewelers, potters, carpenters, sacred umbrella bearers, dancers, singers, musicians, accountants...

The temple is often crowded with pilgrims and tourists. You will have to leave your shoes and bag at the locker for a handful of rupees. It is better to come early in the morning if you want to visit it quietly.