SRI RANGANATHASWAMY TEMPLE (SRIRANGAM)

This fascinating ^13th-century temple is the country's largest Hindu complex. It is also considered the most important of the 108 Divya Desams (temples mentioned in Hindu stories) dedicated to Vishnu.

Enveloped by the mist of coconut palms far to the north, the temple rises on an island in the middle of the Cauvery River, considered the "Ganges of the South". It is a veritable city surrounded by seven rectangular walled courtyards. The enclosure covers an area of 63 hectares, with 81 shrines, 21 gopurams, 39 pavilions and numerous water reservoirs integrated into the complex, making it one of the largest Hindu temples in the world alongside Angkor Wat. The largest gopuram, at the main entrance, dates from 1987 and is 67 m high.

Inscriptions in the temple suggest that various Hindu dynasties - Cholas, Pandiyas, Hoysalas, Nayaks, Vijayanagar - have helped rebuild and renovate the complex over the centuries.

The majority of shrines are dedicated to Vishnu and his various avatars (Matsya the fish, Kurma the turtle, Varaha the boar, Narasimha the lion-man, Vamana the dwarf, Parashurama the woodcutter, Rama, Krishna and Kalki, who will appear at the end of the Kali Yuga era), and to Lakshmi. You'll see many sculptures representing them. One temple is dedicated to Garuda, the vehicle of Vishnu. The statue of Garuda stands almost eight meters tall and watches over the main sanctuary. Look out for his claws! The sanctuary houses the main deity: Ranganath, a reclining Vishnu on Adisesha, the 7-headed serpent. The statue is 6 metres long. The shrine's vimana is made of gold.

You can also admire various theerthams (tanks), pavilions with delicate sculptures, a granary and a small museum.

The spectacle of worshippers coming to worship contributes to the mystical and spiritual atmosphere that pervades the place. One of the most enchanting temples in the country.

Opposite the temple's main gopuram, on the banks of the Cauvery River, is the Amma Mandapam Ghat, a place where devotees come to purify themselves before entering the sacred precincts.

Hot tip: You can take the tour with a licensed guide, for Rs. 2,050 per half-day (official rates). We recommend Mr. Parthasaty (license 126, tel: +91 80 1514 8615), who will take you on a detailed tour of the temple, in very good French please!