COCHAMÓ VALLEY

This superb valley is an enchantment for nature lovers. You can hike or ride to La Junta and beyond. With few tourists, it's all the wilder for it. A much longer circuit is possible on horseback: a loop that takes you from Cochamó to Puelo (about 10 days' riding). You'll reach the El Arco valley (rough refuge) and Lake Gormaz.

On horseback: hire a horse from an arriero in Cochamó (ask around and you'll always find someone nice); a guide will accompany you. The scenery is idyllic and the ride sumptuous. The journey takes around 5 hours to the lodge (picnic by a raging river, the Río Pedra). It takes just as long to get back down. It's best to stay up there for at least two nights, to take your time and enjoy the surroundings. Around the lodge, a 6 km trail leads to two waterfalls; signs indicate the main tree species encountered along the way. You'll also be able to admire some beautiful old alerces.

On foot: follow the track on the left before the bridge to the campsite, for 8 km, then continue on the path that runs more or less alongside the river, deviating slightly from it. You reach the La Junta site by crossing the river at the end (follow the horse tracks). Here, you can camp if you wish, taking advantage of the quincho to prepare an asado. Note that if your bag is heavy, you can use a pilchero, a carrying horse.