Deauville is the Norman charm, that " petit some chose " that leaves no one indifférent ! The wild character of the tides, the half-timbered extravagances, its great airs which parade at the casino, the racecourse or on the red carpet of the Film Festival américain : Deauville ensures all the glitter of its legend... And even more so for those who venture beyond the Planches and into the adorable Honfleur basin, the most picturesque port on the Côte Fleurie. While the famous Festival is still going on this year, from 4 to 13 September, this is a perfect opportunity to set down your suitcases in this legendary Normandy city.
The beautiful Normandy girl..
In 1850, Deauville consisted of one church, ten farms and twenty-six houses... until the Duke of Morny transformed this nice little town into " royaume from élégance ". It only took a few years for the sumptuous villas, the racecourse and the railway line to appear. Or for "Dosville" to become "Deauville". During the Roaring Twenties, the beautiful Normandy area attracted the Parisian public, and today it is still one of the most luxurious seaside resorts in France. Let's be honest, Deauville's greatest luxury is to be located at 200 kilomètres from Paris, allowing city dwellers to get a breath of fresh air in less than two hours..
There are still some valiant vestiges that tell the story of its great era, such as the famous Promenade des Planches, made of exotic wood and topped with Pompeian arches, built to save Josephine Baker, Coco Chanel and Mistinguett from having to walk on the sand. Or the Grand Hotel Normandy and its tormented curves entirely dressed in white fences symbolizing the extravagance of the Belle Époque resort. The Villa Strassburger is right on the heels of this masterpiece at œuvre : corner towers, corbels and canopies characterize the architectural hum of the années 1920. The souvenir album forms a picturesque backdrop along the railway station, the port, the town hall, in the heart of the covered market celebrating local specialities and in front of the half-timbered villas with their flowery gardens
One day is enough to ride around the city on a bicycle, since in a few pedal strokes you can easily reach the centre, the port, the pier and the waterfront where the big " folies " seaside resorts are located, such as the Villa Camélia or the mythical casino, comfortably installed at the Normandy and the Royal Barrier
...and its great airs
Casino, but also cabins, deckchairs or parasols, the folklore of Deauville has a prix ! Fortunately, the city can be lived simply, that the sea offers itself to everyone graciously, even if you sometimes have to run after its marées : this is what makes all its charm... which transforms itself into enchantment during horseback rides on the beach and gallops at the level of the foam, hair in the wind. Great airs - tout or at least altiers - which was attributed to the Duke of Morny when he commanded the hippodrome de la Touques. A few years later, the town inaugurated a second hippodrome (Clairefontaine) and, through this double showcase, declared itself " capitale from cheval ". Every top-of-the-range seaside resort has a golf course . Deauville has trois ! The nearest is Golf Barrière, set on the heights of Mount Canisy. Thanks to the technicality of its course, this golf course has been ranked among the best in the country.
Atmosphere, atmosphere...
Only 15 kilomètres separates Deauville from Honfleur and yet we totally change the universe, at least the atmosphere that carries around some privateer..
Honfleur is the most charming port of Calvados and seems to have written history from the tip of its anchor. Serving both as a defence of the royal river and as the starting point for great oceanic epics, it was seen to play the role of a military stronghold, particularly during the Hundred Years' War, and as a commercial port and maritime city in the 16th and 17th centuries
The Vieux-Bassin, which has become a marina, weaves the picturesque decor of the city and features the oldest houses, most of which date back to XVIe siècle. The Sainte-Catherine quay thus displays a sacred ribbon of tall houses, side by side and covered with slates, which inspired the painters of the 19th century and XXe siècle and which still inspire easels today. The soul of Honfleur floats somewhere around here, sometimes playing between the masts of the boats, sometimes flattering the terraces on both sides of the river? At the far end is the Lieutenancy, which once housed the King's lieutenant and which remains the last witness to the city's fortifications. The old town nestles in the alleys behind the Sainte-Catherine church, the largest sacred wooden building in France. In the heart of this protected area, the Saint-Etienne church, transformed into a museum of the Navy, exhibits the happy hours of the navy and the salt granaries built at XVIIe siècle to store some 10 000 tonnes of salt are among the historical monuments. They were the last four large salt warehouses in Normandie ; they became the property of the city in 1952 and are now used as a cultural centre
The medieval port also revives the artistic memory of the estuary, that of Eugène Boudin, the forerunner of the Impressionist movement, who created the school, as well as the Honfleur museum, with a considerable collection of works by artists who painted the Normandy coast, including Courbet and Monet. The memory of Erik Satie also, an avant-garde composer who was born and lived here. His house has been transformed into an interactive museum that plays with humour with the many facets of artiste : a playful visit to his completely whimsical world
Long live the cinema!
When the curtain closes and the lights come back on after 10 days of the festival, you wish the time clock would stop. Since 1975, Deauville has been a major film festival in France. In 2020, the American Film Festival celebrates its 46th edition from September 4 to 13. A special edition, since American stars will not be making the trip, but a film festival all the same despite the sanitary conditions and a more French-speaking red carpet. But hey! The most important one is taking place on the big screen. The festival deauvillais is the only one to offer to the general public and movie lovers 24/24 projections during 10 days. The emphasis is on American cinema with studio films, independent films, tributes, documentaries and short films. No less than 100 films (in 13 categories) will be presented. Please note that the Festival and Day Passes do not give access to all screenings! It's best to be well informed.
Smart info
When? In the summer, the temperatures are very pleasant but it is also the busiest time of the year. Therefore, prefer spring and autumn. The time of the American Film Festival is perfect. In 2020, to attend the 46th edition, go from September 4 to 13.
Get there. By train or by car. Deauville and Honfleur are at 200 kilomètres from Paris.
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Useful. To best prepare for his Norman escapade.
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