Discover Québec : Quebec City's carnival

The Quebec Winter Carnival is known far beyond the borders of Canada, and rightly so. It is reputed to be the largest winter carnival in the world, no less. This major annual event is an ode to the joys of winter and to Quebec traditions, with its illustrious Bonhomme Carnaval as the figurehead. For ten days in February, the various neighbourhoods of the provincial capital vibrate to the rhythm of a masterfully crafted program, offering urban, gourmet, sports and outdoor experiences for all tastes and audiences. In short, the Québec Winter Carnival must be experienced at least once in a lifetime, especially since it takes place in the Québec capital, a charming city with a New France feel. Get out your boots, snow gear, mittens and hat for the occasion, and get ready to experience the biggest party of the winter!

A little history

The very first carnival was held in 1894 at a time of the year known for its festive side. Indeed, the carnival period is a period of popular winter festivities that stretches from Christmas and Three Kings to Lent, when forty days of privation begin in the Catholic religion. The high point is the famous Mardi Gras, which represents the end of the "carnal days", a day that also marked the end of the Quebec Winter Carnival for several years. It was only in 1972 that it was extended to Sunday.

Although the first edition dates back more than a century, the festivities were interrupted by the two wars and the economic crisis of 1929. It will emerge a few times, relatively sporadically, until the middle of the twentieth century. It was then that a group of businessmen decided to relaunch the carnival with a view to the economic development of the city. The famous Bonhomme became the official representative of the festivities, which took off in the winter of 1955. Since then, the carnival has not skipped a single year, except in 2021 because of the pandemic, becoming a cherished tradition for Quebecers and a driving force behind the capital's winter tourist activity.

The famous Bonhomme Carnaval

Indissociable from the Québec Winter Carnival and even from the image of the entire city, Bonhomme is an ambassador for the joie de vivre of Quebecers. He comes back every winter with his contagious good humour and his unmistakable rallying cry "Joyeux carnaval! He is so popular that several songs have even been composed in his honour, including the inevitable Salut Bonhomme

. Created by Benoît Thériault, his silhouette is as traditional as it gets: just look for a 180 kg snowman, measuring more than two metres, not to mention his cavernous voice, and wearing a red hat and a traditional Quebecois arrow belt. To be almost certain of finding him, drop by the Palais de Bonhomme, his official residence.

"Born" in 1954, he made his first public appearance on January 9, 1955 in front of the Saint-Louis Gate. In the presence of the mayor of the time, Wilfrid Hamel, he symbolically received the keys to the city, which made him the undisputed king of the party for the duration of the carnival. This tradition still persists and is held every year at the start of the festivities.

It should be noted that the Bonhomme Carnaval in Quebec differs greatly from his European cousin. In Quebec, he talks and laughs, walks among the crowd and does his famous foot-stomping, while in Europe, he is inanimate and made of straw or wood, in addition to being sacrificed when the carnival ends on Mardi Gras..

A little traditional

When you say carnival, you say traditions! Wearing red, proudly displaying the Bonhomme Effigy and an arrow sash (a French-Canadian weaving technique unique in the world), singing carnival songs, blowing a red or blue trumpet, or sipping a glass of Caribou (a mixture of red wine, hard liquor and herbs). In fact, the original recipe for the Caribou served at the Quebec Winter Carnival - brandy, vodka, port and sherry - came from Ti-Père, well known at the time for its popular bar on Sainte-Thérèse Street during the carnival, Les Voûtes Chez Ti-Père.

While some traditions have endured to the present day, others are only a memory. One need only think of the Duchesses of the Carnival, who have been present at the event since its beginnings, or almost, with a break between 1996 and 2014. As ambassadors of the festivities, they also played a social role by touring hospitals, reception centres, schools, etc.

Ten busy days

Needless to say, the Québec Winter Carnival offers a superb program that will please everyone. It kicks off on the first day of the carnival with the inauguration ceremony featuring Bonhomme, the big star of the event.

On the activity side, there are of course some must-sees, starting with the legendary Bonhomme Palace, the centerpiece of this winter celebration. Bonhomme makes several daily appearances there and is happy to take photos with festival-goers. The night parades are also popular, a true carnival tradition that attracts huge crowds every year on its nightly route. For a real eye-opener, the ice canoe race is a must-see. Considered an extreme sport, it challenges dozens of teams to canoe the frozen waters of the St. Lawrence River between Quebec City and Levis, which are riddled with currents, tides, ice and frazil. The snow bath is another must-do activity. Dressed in your best bathing suit, you are invited to take a dip in the snow. Notice to the bravest! Don't miss the ice sculpture demonstrations, which allow you to admire the beauty of these ephemeral works. You can also try your hand at axe throwing or jigging, classics of Quebec folklore. Some will prefer to discover the tales and legends of Quebec or to dance to the sound of the DJs and various musical groups present at the carnival. It is also the perfect occasion to taste all sorts of gourmet and alcoholic specialties such as poutine, beaver tail (fried wheat dough in the shape of a beaver tail and covered with chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, etc.), maple taffy on snow and the Carnival Ponce and its Sirop à Bonhomme (a mixture of spiced rum, gin and cocktail syrup). And since the program varies from year to year, it is best to consult the website to plan your trip. To take full advantage of the event, you must purchase the official Effigy, which is essential for access to the carnival sites. Happy carnival!
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