Marrakesh, the pearl of southern Morocco

Updated on 28/08/2024 • by Baptiste THARREAU

Standing as a mirage at the foot of the snow-covered summits of the High Atlas, surrounded by red and ochre ramparts, hence its nickname «red city», Marrakech is a condensed of colors, odors and architectural splendors, where life boiling whatever the period of the year. It has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in recent years.

Modernization of the twentieth century

At the beginning of the twentieth century, Marrakech experienced a few years of civil wars. In 1912, the establishment of the French protectorate in Morocco stabilized the country and provided it with an economic and modern infrastructure. In the west and north, the Gueliz district, always regarded as «the new city», was created by Marshal Lyautey to accommodate the families of diplomats and other senior French officials. It is still very residential with large avenues lined with luxury stores, shopping malls, a Mc Donald's and other international signs.

Marrakesh deserves to walk first on foot, a hand plan, to locate the main centers of interest. The starting point is often the famous Koutoubia, a mosque of Hispanic-violin inspiration which owes its name to the booksellers of the Middle Ages. This is the highest minaret in Marrakech with its 77 meters. Unfortunately, it is not possible to visit it or climb up to the top, we can only admire it from outside.

At 500 meters, the famous Jemaa-el-Fna Square, «The Place des Trépast», inscribed in the cultural and intangible heritage of mankind and true lung of the city, was once a place of public execution. Today, this is undoubtedly the most lively, joyful and largest place in the Maghreb. The whole of Marrakesh comes at some point in the day. Whatever the time of day, the show is never the same. Public place or outdoor theater? It's hard to say. In the morning, the market is an excellent time for coffee or tea. We appreciate pressed oranges, the best in the world! The square is a vast ballet of bikes, bikes and passers-by. Little by little the snakes of snakes, storytellers, musicians, jugglers, etc., the fountains of water with multicolored armor barded with copper cups constantly shake their bell and let themselves be photographed for some dirhams.

At night, the place changes completely. Street conservators install food stalls, tables, benches and fortune barbecues. Hundreds of people tributary to share some typical dishes. You should not hesitate to dive into the mix and sit around tables to taste veal feet, a harira, a sheep head, or, more classical, delicious kefta skewers. A bit of height can be found in the restaurants surrounding the square, particularly at the famous Café de France or at the Brasserie du Glacier. This is absolutely fascinating, especially when the sun lies behind the Koutoubia, while the dry sweets of the Gnaouas crotches are heard. Then, the night's recollection surrounds this crowd, which gradually runs out to leave a huge area empty of its pleasures.

The shopping adventure in the suks

A few steps away, the souks are open every day except some cloves closed on Fridays, day of prayer. Inside a maze of lanes and venelles protected by wooden lattes, we move from one souk to another. The tanners, exiled to the other end of the city, are curiosity if you don't fear strong smells… On the other hand, auctions are impressive, and the most regular are those of the carpets in the Joutia Zrabi souk or that of the baboons in the Smata souk. Another practice: Haggling, whether in the Medina or in Gueliz. Prices can fall to 50%… Attention is also paid to the sometimes mixed spices, to the argan oils that are not really, to rose water without too much pink. Business is often thought to be doing business, but the disagreed is frequent once home. This is also part of the folklore of such a trip!

In the last few years, Marrakech has been boiling. Artisans have become more creative, inventive and innovative, while preserving ancestral know-how. Large hotels have invaded the Palmeraie and the Wintering, two ancient greenhouses. Marrakesh has become the capital of luxury where politicians, ACC 40 bosses and people of all kinds… But, thanks to this enthusiasm, Morocco has revived a long-forgotten treasure: the riads. These jewels, hidden behind the austere walls of the medina, are organized around a central patio often equipped with a fountain, a basin, a swimming pool, lush gardens in the ambiance of the Mille and One Nights. Transformed into restaurants, guest houses or charming hotels, there are nearly 600 in the medina. It is best to stay in a nearby area near Jemaa-el-Fna Square.

Moroccan cuisine rivaling the world's best

If accommodation has evolved, restoration has done the same. Great French chefs, such as Fabrice Vulin, Yannick Alleno and Jean-Pierre Vigato were asked to direct the kitchens or put their names at the bottom of prestigious maps. But in Marrakech, we eat very well in restaurants more than correct for small sums. Riads are often table of hosts and after a day spent craping, you appreciate the charming setting and tranquility. Moroccan cuisine, very refined, incorporates various influences. Both Berber, Arab, Jewish, Christian, she is renowned throughout the world for his associations mixing salty and sweet, but also for his perfumes of saffron, cumin or coriander. The couscous, of course, is one of the specialties, like the tajins, the mechoui, the pigeon pastilla or salads. Not to mention the pastries (pink sands, honey pancakes or gazelle horns) that accompany mint tea at all times of the day. Marrakech lives at night and its tourists also, which has led some investors to open up connected cafés and discotheques, such as the Pasha Avenue Mohamed-VI or the Theatrical Theater of the Es Saâdi Hotel. The third city of the country by its population, Marrakech remains the tourist capital by its geographical position, the richness of its history and its ability to bind past and present to become an indispensable resort.