ROYAL JONGMYO SHRINE

This is another of Seoul's must-see sites. It, too, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. Although it is still possible to visit, the temple is under renovation until 2025, with some parts inaccessible.

Built by King Taejo in the early Joseon period to house the tablets of his ancestors, the sumptuous royal sanctuary of Jongmyo has been continually enlarged ever since. Destroyed in 1592 during the Japanese invasions, it was rebuilt in 1608. It houses the tablets of the Joseon kings, queens and certain crowned princes in 2 large buildings, Jeongjeon and Yeongnyeongjeon. The first, the largest, contains the tablets of 18 eminent Joseon kings, their queens and a crowned prince. It is also the longest traditional wooden building in Korea. The second houses the tablets of 7 other kings, their queens, 4 princes and other members of the royal family. Two disgraced kings were excluded, Yeonsangun and Daewhangun, who were stripped of their gun, prince rank. The tablet of the last crowned prince Yi Un was officially added in 1972.

5 times a year, the kings had to hold long ceremonies in memory of their ancestors. These ceremonies(Jongmyo taeje), halted in 1910 by the Japanese, were resumed in 1960. They take place once a year on the first Sunday in May. Attendance is a must: it's one of the rare opportunities to see a Confucian ritual. The altars are opened with royal tablets and offerings of food and alcohol. The ritual complex includes offerings and prayers performed by descendants of the royal Yi clan, as well as court dances accompanied by the Royal Court Music Orchestra. Everyone is dressed in traditional costume. The ritual takes place twice a day. Next to the Jeongjeong, a shrine houses the tablets of 83 deserving Joseon subjects. A sacred spring is still used to provide water for the rituals. The other buildings were and still are used for ceremony preparation.

A footbridge links Jongmyo to Changgyeonggung Palace. This visit is an opportunity for a pleasant stroll through the large park. In the square in front of Jongmyo, elderly or idle people gather to play board games, drink, play badminton (a rather picturesque scene, by the way)... Except on Saturdays, the site can only be visited on a guided tour (which is a bit of a shame). But it's still one of the city's must-sees!