SEOKGURAM CAVE

It is one of the most famous monuments in the whole of South Korea, and rightly so. This pseudo-rotunda-shaped cave was built at the same time as Bulguksa in the 8th century to house a statue of Buddha. It faces east and is beautifully decorated with the very first rays of the sun. It is reached after a small path in the mountain. The disappointment is however great to see that a glass prevents us from approaching the statue. This one is nevertheless so beautiful, harmonious, perfect in its proportions that we forget this protective glass to let ourselves go to admiration. The plan of the cave is simple but perfectly proportioned: an antechamber is carved with the eight guardian deities, Palbujeong and two fierce and muscular guardians, Inwang, facing us. In the small corridor that follows are the four celestial kings (Cheonwang) who also guard the entrance to the cave. Next is a circular room lined with 15 high reliefs: two female bodhisattvas on each side, followed by ten disciples or Arhats and the bodhisattva Gwanse-eum at the back. One will notice and be surprised to see that the disciples have Aryan features. In the centre of the ambulatory is the statue of the Buddha seated on a lotus-shaped pedestal. He is seated in the traditional mudra "calling the land to witness". This stone statue with its incredibly powerful face is certainly one of the most beautiful in the world, especially since it is in a perfectly appropriate setting. In fact, since 1995, it has been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Restored by the Japanese at the beginning of the century, Seokguram has lost its original shape, and successive restorations have further altered it. There are now serious moisture problems that cause cracks in the walls and on the statue. It is believed that the cave was open at the front, without a wooden pavilion. In addition, there was a window above the door that allowed the first rays of the sun to come and illuminate the Buddha's face, reproducing the mystery of enlightenment every morning (Buddha reached this state at dawn). This window also allowed the air entering through the door to circulate. The spring from which water can be drunk outside actually passes under the cave. It cooled the ground, allowing the moisture in the air to condense. In addition, the cave was covered with stones and earth, which allowed much better ventilation than the concrete screed that now surrounds it.