SCULPTURAL ENSEMBLE OF CONSTANTIN BRÂNCUŞI

You can start your tour of Brâncuși's works in Central Park, which stretches along the Jiu River immediately west of the city center. Here you can see three sculptures the artist created between 1937 and 1938, in memory of the dead of the First World War. At the entrance to the park, at the end of Calea Eroilor, stands The Kissing Gate(Poarta Sărutului), a kind of triumphal arch, 5.30 meters high by 6.60 wide, which resembles the wooden portals of the region, adorned with folk motifs. On each of the gate's two supporting columns are carved stylized representations of a man and a woman united by a kiss, hence the name. On Saturdays, you'll see many newly-wed couples coming out of church to have their photo taken under the door. You then walk along L'Allée des chaises(Aleea Scăunelor) with its "plots" evoking sections of La Colonne de l'infini. Further on is the Table of Silence(Masa Tăcerii), where each of the twelve "stools" surrounding the 2.18-meter-diameter table represents a month of the year. Its shape is inspired by ancient peasant tables.

Brâncuși's most famous sculpture is The Infinity Column(Coloana Infinitului). It stands to the east of the town center. It's reached from the park's main entrance via Calea Eroilor to its other end. You'll pass a round church, skirt beautiful houses and then cross the railroad line. Finally, it rises straight up a hill. Unimpressive from afar, it becomes even more so as you approach. Constructed of copper-coated cast iron (recently renovated and therefore particularly shiny), 29.35 metres high, it symbolizes the spiritual connection between man and the infinite. The artist was inspired by the pillars of local farmhouses, which you'll quickly recognize on your jaunts through the countryside. The work underwent extensive restoration between 1996 and 2000, after being declared a "public asset of national interest" by the government of the time. Its appearance, texture and color are constantly changing, depending on the weather, the time of day or your mood.

If you'd like to complete your "Brâncuși pilgrimage" in Romania, head for Hobița, his native village, 30 km west of Târgu Jiu. Here you can visit the house where he grew up, now converted into a museum. You can also visit the Craiova Art Museum, where some of his works are on display.