Aarhus, Jutland's major city, has been designated as the European Capital of Culture in 2017. A godsend for the Danish city and a perfect opportunity to discover one of the most pleasant cities in the country.
A pleasant city
Caught between the sea and high hills, Aarhus has long lived as if it had been picked up on the coast, around its port which borders the historic district, the Ceres breweries and the oil and margarine factory whose chimneys still dominate the city. A sweet smell of hops still floats over the city. But, in addition to the bold buildings designed by Arne Jacobsen (a belfry full of functionalist design from the 1940s) or Kjær and Richter (a pure glass music house, built 20 years ago), there is now a gigantic shopping centre leaning against a luxury hotel, then a brand new museum of modern art (ARoS), nicknamed the White Diamond, a reference to the black Diamond of the capital, an extension of the Royal Library in Copenhagen.
The city itself has developed on several levels, and remains one of the most pleasant cities in Denmark to visit, and to walk or cycle through. We cross the old town, footbridges linking shopping and pedestrian districts, above an old boulevard partially converted into a kind of Nyhavn, this famous canal bordered by café terraces in Copenhagen. Aarhus also breathes with the number of its parks, and the forest is at its doorstep... A certain charm emerges from this rich cultural city that attracts students from all over the country.
An authentic Old Town
It is a large open-air museum, where you can stroll around Denmark in the past. Since 1914, more than 75 houses from all over the country have been moved from their original surroundings and installed on the edge of this Aarhus park. In Denmark, old houses have long been ignored, preferring in some cities to demolish them rather than keep them. So much so that some owners of old houses have donated them to the museum to ensure their survival. A few years ago, you could walk around the site and visit the houses (the oldest date of the Renaissance, the most recent of the First World War) only with a guide. Faced with the growing success of the old city, a new, more open formula has been adopted: one can freely enter all the houses, but each room remains protected by a glass or Plexiglas. Too bad. Because each interior has been reconstructed with authentic elements, corresponding to the style and period of the house. Children love the old school, the old post office, the bookstore and the bakery where you can buy "for real". It is also possible to enter craftsmen's workshops. The setting is very pleasant, with its cobbled streets, its inner courtyards and its botanical garden. Lunch is available (in the Simonsens garden, cafeteria and music stand in summer, or all year round at Prins Ferdinand restaurant). You can also bring a picnic in Madkassen's courtyard.
Visits in a mess
The cathedral was built in Romanesque style in the 13th century and then built as a Gothic cathedral in the 15th century. Inside, it looks more like an almost flamboyant Catholic church than an austere Lutheran temple. We can see many paintings with very elaborate frames, a lot of gilding and statues abound. The organ is in pure Baroque style and, just above the altar, a triptych signed by the master of Lübeck and dating back to 1479 can be found. The nave, which measures 93 m, is the longest in the country. And it is also the height of the bell tower...
The Town Hall was covered with Norwegian marble and flanked by a tower designed by Arne Jacobsen. It was built between 1936 and 1941 to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the Aarhus Charter. The visit of the whole building is worth a look between spaces and volumes, lighting and furniture, light wood and brightness... And everything bears the Jacobsen signature.
Aarhus also has two castles. The most charming is Rosenholm's. Built between 1559 and 1567, this small red brick castle is surrounded by a moat and a park with a small French garden and a pavilion. In the rooms that can be visited, there are some Flemish and French tapestries, Spanish and Arab furniture, and paintings, including many portraits. Since its construction, the castle has belonged to one of the great Danish aristocratic families, the Rosenkrantz family. The same one Shakespeare quoted in Hamlet
Marselisborg Castle is the summer residence of Queen Margrethe II. The castle is not open to the public, but you can walk in the park in the absence of the sovereign..
On the museum side there is also something to do. Aarhus has always suffered from its provincial status, yet the city has one of the most important art museums in Scandinavia. Inaugurated on April 8, 2004, the "White Diamond" masterfully imposes its cubic shape in the urban landscape. No less than ten floors connected by a gigantic spiral staircase that provides natural access to the exhibition rooms. The top floor is dedicated to the Golden Age and Danish Modernism (1770-1930), while the lower floors (1, 5 and 6) offer international collections of modern and contemporary art. Among other things, we discover the works of Andy Warhol, by the Danish Per Kirkeby, and the monumental sculpture of Ron Mueck, The Boy, a young man crouching down, who was designed in fibreglass and watches over the museum from the top of his 5 metres. The basement consists of 9 spaces that house the installations of international artists. On the top floor, you can access the terrace (from May to October) which offers a very beautiful view of the city
Then, direction Moesgaard. The star of the museum: Grauballe's man. It was found in 1952, in a nearby marsh where it was thrown more than 2,000 years ago, after being slit. The mud kept him intact, his body was only blackened and his hair rusted by the iron contained in the soil of this region. He is lying in the window and this 2,000-year-old body, which still has skin on its bones, is very impressive. Other rooms present ethnographic collections on the Vikings, the lives of the dead and prehistory. Then you can walk towards the beach: along the way you will find reconstructions of huts and houses from the Bronze and Iron Age. As well as Viking houses and a very colourful church, flanked by a dragon's head: this is the reconstruction of a wooden church, traces of which have been found near Randers. Unlike Norway, there are no surviving wooden religious buildings from the Viking period in Denmark
After a glance at the Women's Museum, head for the port and its new district. It is a real island built around the port and a real architectural jewel! The latest innovation is the opening of the observation tower, which offers a sublime view of the port and the city.
European Capital of Culture 2017
This year, Aarhus is looking its best for this major event in the life of a city. That's good, it has all the assets to welcome thousands of tourists. The whole Central Jutland region has prepared for this title and expects to benefit from tourists arriving in Denmark. A complete programme has been developed to delight visitors to the city (and the premises!) throughout the year: theatre, concerts, shows, exhibitions... and four mega-events, such as The Garden. To celebrate the title of European Capital of Culture, the city has joined forces with the Fine Arts Museum to create an extraordinary exhibition. Called The Garden, the main theme is the relationship between human beings and nature. It will be presented in three parts (past, present and future) and at two locations (the museum and the city port).
Smart info
When? When? You can go to Denmark in summer as well as in winter. Each season offers opportunities to appreciate the country from different angles.
Getting there. It will require a stopover in Copenhagen and a flight time of about 40 minutes from the capital.
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Useful. To prepare your escapade as well as possible.
AARHUS TOURISM OFFICE - More information on the website
AARHUS, CAPITALE DE LA CULTURE 2017 - More information on the website
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