LE BEAUJOLAIS

When, tired of "fusion" dishes, you want a meal like at Auntie Jeanne's, with garlic snails, beef bourguignon and Tatin, bread spread with Isigny and a bottle of Gamay, then you'll go to Philippe. For this chef is in a way the memory keeper of traditional French recipes, the paleohistoriographer of wine sauce and cream, the last bastion against the barbarism of diet food. Checkered tablecloths, Dalida in the background, service. A no-nonsense bistro with no excess of style, serving dishes like the Routiers of yesteryear.