THE ISLANDS BY BOAT

UAQ has eight islands, linked by several inlets. The largest of these, Al-Sinniyah, measures 90 km² and is home to an extraordinary mangrove swamp prized by local and migratory birds. Given the depletion of mangroves in general, and in the Persian Gulf in particular, the site is now of global value. The aim is to save an original ecosystem, symbolized by the mangrove, and home to the world's second-largest colony of dugongs, herbivorous marine mammals also known as "sea cows". They were already present here in 3,500 BC, as evidenced by a Neolithic sanctuary containing the ritually arranged remains of forty dugongs. Unfortunately, for conservation reasons, access to the island is restricted, and only the royal family or archaeologists are welcome. But bird lovers need not worry: mangroves surround all the islands, and flamingos, herons and, in winter, Socotra cormorants fly indifferently from one to the other, so there's no shortage of opportunities to observe them. The Flamingo Beach Resort organizes boat trips with captains who know the local wildlife, but make sure they speak English. We recommend that you call ahead, either early in the morning or late in the afternoon, and check the tides with them. Make sure you take a cap, sun cream and a good pair of sunglasses.