Smiling and sunny, stretched out on the thin tongue of land that runs between the sea and the hills, Genoa never ceases to surprise its visitors, surprised to discover an artistic, cultural and identity heritage so rich and unusual. Proud of its glorious historical past, the Ligurian capital is today a young, dynamic city, attached to its past but looking to the future, ready to meet all the challenges of modernity. The best evidence of this is its legendary port, which embodies the extraordinary capacity of this city to constantly reinvent itself.
Between sumptuous palaces and old-fashioned shops
First of all, the historic centre of Genoa contains a concentration of works of art and architectural testimonies that are as unique as they are unexpected. Vast, mysterious and bubbling with vitality, getting lost in it is an adventure that reserves new discoveries with each step. The large straight arteries lined with sumptuous palaces share the urban setting with a labyrinth of medieval alleyways - the caruggi - dotted with votive kiosks bearing the effigy of the Virgin Mary as well as picturesque old shops still in operation. The Via Garibaldi is a must, with 14 elegant palaces and majestic facades. Here stuccoes, frescoes, gilding and masterpieces (not to mention the Van Dyck and Rubens) reflect the refinement and know-how of the noble Genoese families who had them built in the 16th century.
Labelled by UNESCO in 2006, several of these palaces are now open for visits; among them Palazzo Bianco, Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Tursi have nothing to envy their Roman or Florentine counterparts.
But the historic centre still has many surprises in store. Pharmacies, butcher shops, candy shops, clothing shops and barbers.... More than 450 period commercial signs still stand on the street and constitute a true artistic and identity heritage of which the Genoese are very proud. Some of them have more than 300 years of history; staying there for the duration of a purchase or simply taking a photo allows you to enjoy a heritage that is a witness to a past, difficult to find elsewhere.
The antico port and its universe
In the shade of the lavish palaces and far from the colourful agitation of the caruggi, the port of Genoa appears to the walker like a mirage. Unique among the ports of the Mediterranean, the Porto Antico in Genoa is a kind of city within the city. Open to the horizon but deeply attached to the urban centre, this marine universe has been able to reinvent itself with talent and vitality to offer today to Genoese and foreigners alike a faithful setting bubbling with activities.
King of the port, modern symbol of the complete makeover offered by the archstar Renzo Piano in Genoa on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus (proud Genoese moreover) in 1992, the Bigo dominates the esplanade of the waterfront. Its futuristic silhouette resembles a giant spider that looks like it came out of a science fiction movie. This huge structure, 40 m high, has a double function. Inspired by the cranes used to load and unload goods, the Bigo supports tents set up below, pavilions for events and demonstrations, and also lifts a panoramic lift with one of its arms, which gives shivers to all those who use it. On the same perimeter, here is the Aquarium, an amazing museum that allows young and old to discover the wonders of the underwater world along a par- cours worthy of the 20,000 leagues under the sea. Its purpose? To familiarize the public with the most unique marine species but also to make visitors aware of the fragile balance of the marine world. Here live 15,000 animals and more than 200 species of plants, which have returned to 70 basins! From the Mediterranean Sea to the Caribbean coral reef, or the icy waters of Antarctica, you can admire fish from all over the world, from the ugly moray eel to the colourful companions of Nemo, but also starfish, jellyfish, rays, seals, manatees... not to mention the great stars of the place, dolphins and sharks. A little further down the pier, the glass walls of the Biosphère, a huge mo- derne geode, where a beautiful sample of tropical plants grow, glisten in the sun.
Closing off the south of the port, the Magazzini del Cotone, former warehouses for the storage of goods, are now transformed into a congress and exhibition centre. They are home to shops, a huge and extremely well-stocked library and the Città dei Bambini, an establishment where the youngest can discover science and technology through a fun and educational path. Finally, with ten state-of-the-art cinemas, you will find here the largest and most visited of Genoa's cinemas.
Leisure activities "within reach" of the port
If the Riviera du Ponant and the Riviera du Levant with their golden beaches and picturesque villages are only a short distance from the centre of Genoa, Porto Antico also offers great opportunities for urban escape. Summer swimming pool, winter skating rink, sports enthusiasts will find what they are looking for. Located on the roof of the Magazzini del Cotone, the open-air summer swimming pool is the ideal place to cool off and take a dip without leaving the city centre. No way to get bored in winter either, because just a little further on the Ponte Embriaco, between the Aquarium and the Magazzini del Cotone, a huge skating track welcomes skaters.
On the other hand, gourmets and night owls are not to be outdone. The discovery of Genoa and its port also allows you to take a trip through Ligurian gastronomy. In the city centre as well as along the quays of the port, tratttory and osterie offer the best of the local culinary tradition, from minestrone to farinata and the essential pesto. Moreover as in all port cities, Genoa has always had its corners in street food: what better way to walk along the waterfront than by crunching into a piece of smooth focaccia or by pecking into a cone of fish frying? And before you go home, remember to shop at Eataly, the flagship store of Italian gastronomic excellence, located on the quays.
The city offers perhaps its most beautiful face seen from the sea, the time of a boat trip in the port waters to see the pretty landscape of silhouettes of architecture that stand out against the background of green hills.
On summer evenings, from the bay of Porto Antico, there are musical notes from concerts organised as part of the many festivals and events. In addition, the aperitif along the quays is an imperative that Genoese would not give up for anything in the world, and then often end the evening on the boards of one of the seaside establishments, with their feet in the sand or on a floating platform to dance under the stars. Between culture, sports, shopping and leisure, come and experience this city so rich in history; through its caruggi so full of poetry and on the port, the spirit of Genoa is alive and authentic, in the incessant ballet of the boats that come and go on the waves, in the reflections of the water on the futuristic architectures at the forefront of modernity at sunrise and sunset, in the precious and original collections of its museums and in the nonchalance of its inhabitants who walk the waterfront quays conscious and satisfied with everything that their city has to offer them.
Smart info
When? When? All seasons are good for visiting Genoa. Sea breezes soften the climate in summer and reduce the cold in winter. On weekends, the Aquarium is very crowded, so expect to wait in line.
Getting there. 3 return trips per day from Paris-CDG to Cristoforo Colombo airport. Alternatively, a landing in Nice or Pisa will allow you to reach Genoa by bus or by train. Genoa is also served daily by direct Thello trains (www.thello.com) to/from the south of France (Monaco, Nice, Antibes, Cannes, Saint-Raphaël, Toulon, Marseille). Of course, you can also drive there (194 km from Nice).
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