What to eat Genoa? culinary specialties and gastronomy

Discover Genoa : Gastronomy

Forming a thin strip of land between the Alpes-Maritimes and Tuscany, articulated to the north of the Gulf of Genoa, Liguria has a very interesting terroir. If this region, fringed with cliffs and jagged coasts, honors the products of the sea, it remains that the local farmers knew how to show ingenuity to tame these often abrupt grounds. Although Liguria is located in the northern half of Italy, its gastronomy is deeply Mediterranean and reminiscent of Roman, Sardinian or Neapolitan cuisine. There is a wide variety of vegetables, pasta and starches accompanied by fish, seafood and meat, all flavored with a multitude of herbs, including basil, which is used to make the famous pesto. Simple but tasty desserts are always served with an excellent coffee, not to mention a fine wine list.

Characteristic products

Ligurian cuisine makes generous use of vegetables that are renowned in Italy for their excellent quality: purple asparagus from Albenga and Perinaldo, white beans from Pigna and Conio, purple artichoke from Albenga, zucchini from Alberello di Sarzana, pumpkin from Rocchetta and Tromba squash from Albenga, similar to a long zucchini. Also appreciated are tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini flowers, green beans and various leafy vegetables: radicchio (chicory), spinach, broccoli, etc. Preboggión is a mixture of wild herbs used to flavor soups, pasta or savory pastries, based on borage, dandelion, chicory, nettle, etc. The olive tree is emblematic of Liguria, from which the extra virgin olive oil Riviera Ligure DOP is extracted, without forgetting the small taggiasche

olives, very tasty.

Among the most common types of pasta are linguine and trenette, a type of flat spaghetti. Trofie are small zigzag pasta, a few centimeters long, traditionally made with wheat and potato flour, now made with durum wheat. Battolli are long pasta made with chestnut flour and corzetti are round pasta shaped like coins. Mandilli

is a kind of lasagna sheet, but it is served as a pasta and not as a gratin.

Fish and seafood are the soul of Liguria: tuna, sea bream, scorpion fish, mullet, anchovies, sardines, etc. Not to mention shrimp, scampi, squid, crabs, octopus, squid, cuttlefish, mussels, clams and other scallops. Cod (stoccafisso or baccalà) is an essential product for Genoa tables. The mosciame is a preparation of salted and dried tuna, appreciated in antipasti. As far as cold cuts are concerned, we can mention the prosciutta castelnovese, without forgetting various salamis such as the salame genovese di Sant'Olcese, similar to a sausage, or the salame con i lardelli, finer, with big pieces of bacon. Of course, there are many cured meats from other Italian regions: coppa, bresaola, mortadella

, etc.

Among the local cheeses, there are various matured tomatoes, such as pecorino di malga made from sheep's milk, caprino di malga made from goat's milk, toma di Mendatica dell'Alta Valle Arroscia and caciotta di Brugnato. The formaggetta della Val Graveglia, della Val di Vara and Savonese are small fresh tomatoes. Not to forget the prescinsêua, a slightly sour fresh cheese, or the giuncata, which is pressed in an elongated wicker basket, giving it the shape of a rugby ball. Finally, brös or bruzzo

is traditionally made of cheese crusts with grappa, grape brandy, although nowadays this very strong tasting product is often made with fresh cheese and white wine. There are a few things to be aware of when entering an Italian restaurant. The coperto is an extra charge (between €2 and €4 per person) that includes bread and service, and is added to the bill, but the price is rarely indicated on the menu. Secondly, although tap water is drinkable, restaurateurs will only offer bottled water, for which a fee is charged. Finally, seaside restaurants often offer fish of the day(pescato del giorno), but the price is calculated for 100 g and not for the whole fish. The bill can be much higher than expected.

The classics of Ligurian cuisine

An Italian meal begins with antipasti. These may include cold cuts, cheese, mushrooms or vegetables in brine, as well as various seafood products such asacciughe sotto sale (anchovies in salt), brandacujun (cod brandade), friscioeu (cod croquette) orinsalata di polpo (octopus salad). The simple frittelle are small fritters made of green onion (cipolla), zucchini flowers (fiori di zucca) or lettuce (lattuga

Gattafin are fried turnovers filled with herbs, chard, eggs, parmesan and onions. Similar to gattafin, focaccette al formaggio contain only cheese. Panissa - as in Provence - is a chickpea dough that is cut into sticks and fried. There is also the farinata - the Ligurian equivalent of the socca from Nice - a kind of large pancake made with chickpea flour (this). Note: the farinata di zucca is more like a thin quiche with pumpkin puree. Focaccia - or fügassa

in Genoese - is a brioche bread rich in olive oil that can be prepared plain or with tomato, cheese, olives, rosemary and so on.

Pissaladière (pissalandrea) is said to have originated in Liguria. While it usually consists of a base of bread dough with caramelized onions, anchovies and olives, it can also contain tomato, taking the name of sardenaira. The torta pasqualina is a pie prepared at Easter, filled with ricotta, spinach and hard-boiled eggs. Although pizza is not a Ligurian specialty, the pizza bianca con patate e fagiolini

- pizza without tomato with potato, green beans, mozzarella and pesto - comes from this region.

When talking about pasta in Liguria, it is impossible not to mention the pesto alla genovese, made with basil, pine nuts, parmesan, pecorino, garlic, salt and olive oil. It goes well with many dishes but is perfect with al dente pasta, to appreciate its richness. Theu toccu is a stew of shredded meat with tomato, onions and herbs. Salsa di noci

is a nut cream that is very popular with pasta.

Stuffed pasta is common and we can mention the pansoti, ravioli filled with a ricotta-spinach-roquette mixture, served with a nut cream. The zembi d'arzillo is a rare specialty of fish ravioli in a light tomato sauce. Finally, lasagne alla ligure

is filled with potatoes, green beans and pesto and then gratinated with béchamel and mozzarella.

Soups are also a favorite. The unavoidable minestrone alla genovese is a rice and vegetable soup (kale, zucchini, green beans, potato, etc.) flavored with pesto. Mesciua is a soup from La Spezia made with durum wheat, chickpeas and white beans. Finally, burrida is a soup made of cod, tomato and potato, often with shrimp, mussels, clams, etc. There is a variant - buridda di seppie con piselli

- where the cod is replaced by cuttlefish and peas.

In Italy, the secondo is a "main" dish made with meat or fish. These include coniglio alla sanremese (rabbit braised in a sauce with olives, walnuts, herbs and red wine), cinghiale alla cacciatora (wild boar stew with red wine and tomato), capra e fagioli (goat stew with white beans) and fricassea di pollo alla ligure (chicken braised in a creamy sauce with white wine, pine nuts and peas) The vitello all'uccelletto is a fricassee of veal with garlic, onion and white wine. Stecchi alla genovese are chicken, veal, beef and sausage brochettes, coated with béchamel sauce and then breaded. Trippa alla genovese

is tripe with tomato, potato and onion.

Cima alla genovese is a recipe for veal breast, stuffed with a mixture of minced meat and small vegetables, then poached in a broth and served cold in slices. Polpettone di melanzane is a kind of "bread" made of eggplant pulp and egg, stuffed with salami and mozzarella cheese, then rolled in breadcrumbs and fried. Zucchine ripiene alla ligure

are zucchini stuffed with minced meat and roasted for a long time in the oven. There are variations with other vegetables. On the sea side, we find the emblematic cappon magro. This Genoese dish is a hearty salad made with hard-boiled eggs, shrimp, tuna and pre-cooked vegetables (carrots, peas, beets, green beans, artichokes) on a bed of crackers(galletta del marinaio), seasoned with salsa verde (olive oil, parsley, garlic, capers, etc.) Also worth mentioning are acciughe ripiene (fresh anchovies stuffed with a mixture of breadcrumbs, egg, parsley and parmesan, breaded and fried), baccalà al verde (cod in a white wine, garlic and parsley sauce) and bagnun (fresh anchovy soup with tomato). The seppie in zimino are cuttlefish in a tomato sauce with chard. Finally, cozze ripiene alla spezzina are mussels stuffed with a mixture of mortadella, parmesan and breadcrumbs, served with a tomato and basil sauce.

Desserts, coffee and spirits

Pandolce is a leavened cake filled with raisins, pine nuts, candied citron, flavored with green anise and served at Christmas. Not surprisingly, the sponge cake - pan di Spagna - comes from Liguria. This airy cake, well known in France, is the basis for torta sacripantina, a multi-layered cake filled with mascarpone and cocoa cream and soaked in Marsala wine. The spongata is a shortbread cake filled with a rich mixture of almonds, dried and candied fruits and honey. In the hills, there is castagnaccio

, a cake made with chestnuts and dried fruit.

Gobeletti are tarts filled with quince jam and ravioli dolci are turnovers filled with sweet ricotta. Cookies include amaretti (with bitter almonds), baxin (with anise and lemon) and canestrelli (with vanilla and lemon). The biscotti del lagaccio

, flavored with fennel seeds, are very crunchy and are dipped in a glass of liqueur or in a cup of coffee. Italians are masters in the art of preparing espresso, cappuccino and ristretto to perfection, and even the most modest bar will have a delicious coffee.

Liguria boasts a first-rate wine production with about twenty D.O.C. wines. The local white wines are very popular, such as the dry Vermentino, ideal for accompanying pasta and seafood. Pigato is a perfect match for fish. In Genoa, the white wine of Coronata has been cultivated since the 16th century. Among the reds is the Rossese

of Dolceacqua. Sciacchetrà is produced only by the winemakers of the Cinque Terre. This deliciously sweet liqueur is made from grapes of the varieties that grow on the steep terraces facing the sea, such as albarola, vermentino and bosco. The grapes are then vinified after a suitable aging and refining. Another emblematic liqueur, limoncino is the Ligurian name for limoncello, which is produced from the Gulf of Genoa to Sicily. The Cinque Terre limoncino is very famous. Among the most common beers are Peroni, Nastro Azzurro, Moretti and Cortigiana.

Enjoying yourself Genoa

Timetable Genoa

Restaurants generally serve from 12:30 to 14:30 and from 19:00 to 22:00 or 23:00. More touristy addresses may offer non-stop catering.

Budget & Tips Genoa

In Genoa, you can always find a good place to grab a bite to eat at a low price, or take your time over a dish of pasta al pesto in a local trattoria. On the other hand, the bill will be considerably higher in the seaside resorts along the coast. If you don't have a big appetite, you can also satisfy yourself at aperitif time. In fact, almost every bar and even many bakeries offer happy hour with a cocktail or glass of wine and plenty of appetizers. Round off with a gelato from one of the city's ice cream parlors.

What costs extra Genoa

Coperto. Don't be surprised if, at the end of your meal, you see a few extra euros on the bill, marked " coperto ". This is simply the place setting, which Italians charge extra for. The amount varies according to the quality of the establishment, between €2 and €5 per person.

Mineral water. Order frizzante (sparkling) or liscia (still). Unlike the French, Italians don't drink tap water, preferring bottled water. So don't be surprised if people look at you sideways when you ask for a carafe of water in a restaurant! In any case, mineral water is sold at a lower price than in France: a large bottle costs between €1.50 and €4.

The local way Genoa

An ideal way to eat on a budget, while soaking up the atmosphere of old Genoa, is in the traditional friggitorie and tripperie. In these tiny taverns, you can enjoy simple, gourmet dishes, once on the menu of port workers, to eat in or take away. 100% authentic, and modestly priced.

To be avoided Genoa

Avoid asking for a carafe of water! Italians only drink mineral water.

Kids Genoa

Genoa is no exception: Italians are very fond of children, so they're generally very welcome everywhere, even in the fanciest restaurants. Highchairs are generally available in all establishments. On the menu, it's not usual to find children's menus, but between pasta, rice, gnocchi and pizza, it's always easy to find something suitable for the little ones. Don't hesitate to ask for them to be prepared with a simpler seasoning than the one on the menu (tomato sauce, pesto or just olive oil), perhaps sprinkled with grated parmesan. Similarly, you'll always find grilled fish filleted with oil and potatoes. And last but not least, children are sure to find their sweet tooth in the land of ice cream!

Smokers Genoa

Smoking is forbidden in enclosed spaces in Italy as in France, so no cigars or cigarettes in restaurants and bistros.

Tourist traps Genoa

Many tourist restaurants and bars have invaded the seaside resorts, particularly on the Riviera des Fleurs and the Riviera delle Palme. Needless to say, you'd be well advised to steer clear of establishments displaying photos of tourist menus featuring pizzas and cappuccinos... Fortunately, you'll find a number of less mass-touristy addresses in each locality that have managed to retain all their authenticity.