TRESKAVEC MONASTERY

This Orthodox monastery (Манастир Трескавец/Manastir Treskavec), whose name means "struck by lightning", is completely isolated at 1,280 m above sea level. Dedicated to the dormition of the Mother of God, it houses precious frescoes from the ^14th and ^15th centuries. It also boasts splendid views over the Pelagonian plain and Mount Zlatovrv ("Golden"), just next door, at 1,422 m altitude. The complex was founded by the Serbian king Milutin around 1284 and was subsequently enlarged by his grandson Emperor Dušan, then by the Byzantine emperors Andronic II and Michael IX. But the site's occupation goes back much further. The rock-hewn seats that have guarded the entrance to the site for over 2,000 years bear witness to this. Remains of a temple to Apollo, a fortified town and a ^5th-6th century church have also been discovered. The object of a violent conflict between the Serbian and Macedonian Churches in 2004, Treskavec was inscribed on Unesco's List of World Heritage in Danger from 2006 to 2008. After renovation, some of the ^19th-century annex buildings were destroyed by fire in 2013.

Cohort of angels. Fortunately, the catholicon (main church) was spared. It features a central dome, a narthex and an exonarthex with two domes. Some of the medieval frescoes were lost or badly restored in the ^19th century. However, the exonarthex (fore-vestibule) retains a decoration painted between 1340 and 1360, depicting texts by the ^11th-century Greek poet Christophe de Mytilène. The north cupola features exceptional ^15th-century frescoes by artists from the Kastoria school (Greece). Surrounding Christ, dressed as a Byzantine emperor, is the oldest complete representation of the Heavenly Court, a sort of hierarchical array of the nine types of angelic creatures. The seraphim lead the way. Covered in feathers, they are considered to be the creatures "most inflamed with God's love". Next come the cherubim, symbols of wisdom and science, then the thrones, which turn on themselves and embody God's justice and authority. Then come the dominions, virtues and powers. Behind them are the principalities and archangels. The monastery may also be of interest to hikers. Our tip: take a cab up to the monastery (approx. MKD 500) and then down the superb, relatively easy trail from the monastery to Prilep via the Marko Towers (10 km, 600 m ascent, approx. 3.5 hrs walk).