Birth of a phenomenon
While Paris has prided itself on imposing trends on the world since Louis XIV, the diktats of Milan's catwalks date back much less time. Italian fashion, and Milanese fashion in particular, is the product of a happy synergy between talented designers, entrepreneurs and craftsmen. Until the Second World War, Italy competed in the fashion industry only in the luggage sector. Luggage makers Prada (undeniable class) and Gucci (tempered eccentricity) were already distributing bags and trunks in the 1920s. But in the post-war years, the world fell under the spell of the refinement of Italian creations. Established in Rome in the 1950s, fashion houses gradually migrated to Milan to expand. Lombardy's first city had the economic and industrial fabric that Italy's capital lacked at the time. So, in the 1960s, Milan took up the torch: a booming industrial and financial metropolis, prevailing economic well-being and the high standards of a hard-working bourgeoisie provided fertile ground for couture workshops to flourish.
In 1958, the first Italian Fashion Week was launched. Designers from all over Italy flocked to Milan. A virtuous collaboration was established between design and the industrialization of fashion products, promulgated by the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, the organization in charge of promoting Italian fashion internationally. The 1970s and 1980s saw the arrival of three star designers, nicknamed "the 3 Gs": Giorgio Armani, Gianfranco Ferré and Gianni Versace, who placed Milan at the forefront of the fashion world. In the 1980s, fashion became a real business in Italy. Today, the country is Europe's leading exporter of fashion goods (second worldwide after China) and, in Milan alone, there are over 1,000 showrooms. The fashion sector accounts for over 5% of the country's annual GDP (2022).
Creators' delusions
Among all the designers who converged on Milan in the 1970s, some of the greatest fashion houses are still to be found in the Quadrilatero della Moda, the downtown area that brings together the most designer boutiques. To name but a few, these are the Italian fashion houses most cherished by the Milanese, and which continue to set trends the world over:
Founded in 1921, Gucci and its iconic bit loafers and double-G buckle belt continue to create a sensation.
Valentino, trained in Paris, became a symbol of Made in Italy, with timelessly refined creations combining French opulence with Italian flair. Valentino red" has become a brand image. It was the signature of Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress.
Giorgio Armani (king Giorgio), Emilian by birth but Milanese by adoption, broke through in the 1980s with his extravagantly controlled creations, daringly luxurious pieces in chic, sober shades of gray, beige and black. He was the first to make fashion a little more accessible with the creation of Emporio Armani, where you could find signed clothes for less.
Versace, headed by Donatella, sister of founder Gianni, who instills a transgressive femininity in all her creations, with their bright colors and exuberant graphics.
Dolce & Gabbana, a story of love and passion. Their harmonious, original creativity is openly linked to Dolce's Sicilian origins.
Missoni, whose geometric patterns on dresses and sweaters have been in vogue ever since they appeared on the catwalks in the 1980s.
Fashion Weeks
Twice a year, fashion professionals and the general public alike look forward to the show. Whether it's for the autumn/winter collections (end of February) or the spring/summer collections (end of September), Milan fills up with journalists, photographers (over 2,500 press professionals) and celebrities invited for the occasion. The pace is frenetic: 200,000 visitors, including 15,000 buyers, drive the Milanese fashion machine. One might simply deplore the fact that, while the haute couture houses are omnipresent and virtually indestructible, young designers struggle to find their place, and often remain obliged to affiliate with a house.
Timeless class
The show continues well beyond the catwalk. Fashion seeks more than one form of expression, and Milanese often become ambassadors for the chic and elegance of the country's labels. Indeed, during the fashion shows, the whole of Milan gets caught up in the fashion game: bars, restaurants and clubs fill up with models nonchalantly displaying the most improbable outfits. The electric atmosphere smacks of glamour. All it takes is a stroll through the streets of Milan to realize just how natural the transition from catwalk to street is.
