What to eat Milan? culinary specialties and gastronomy

Generally, restaurants serve meals between 12:30 and 3pm at midday and from 7:30pm to 11pm in the evening, but more and more places are offering continuous service, especially in the city center. Many restaurants close on Sundays, in August and for the winter vacations between December 25 and January 6. On Friday and Saturday evenings, reservations are always advisable.

In Milan, as in the rest of Italy, there are different types of restaurant, each with its own name and prices.

By ristorante means an establishment of a certain standard, with cloth tablecloths and napkins and attentive service. The bill exceeds €35 per person and, if the address is a little chic, even €50 per head.

The trattoriais a simpler place, often run by the same family for several generations. The atmosphere is informal and prices lower, usually between €25 and €45 per person.

In the same vein, theosteria is supposed to be a more modest version of the trattoria, serving local dishes for a bill ranging from €20 to €30 per person.

Today, the differences between each type of establishment tend to fade, so it's always advisable to check the prices on the menus posted at the entrance.

In the many pizzeriasyou'll generally spend between €8 and €15 for a pizza (gourmet pizzerias may charge a little more), and between €3 and €5 if you take it al taglio, in street food mode for a bite on the go.

Finally, don't forget that in Italy, cheap doesn't mean less good, and bars serve delicious stuffed panini (from €4 to €8) and even a few daily specials for less than €12.

Cutlery(coperto) is generally not included in the bill. You'll be charged between €2 and €6, depending on the level of the establishment: restaurant, trattoria or osteria. As in France, it's customary to leave a tip if you're satisfied with the service.

At home and in restaurants, Italians rarely drink tap water. So there's no need to ask for a carafe of water - you'll be stared at with wide eyes. You'll have to choose between acqua gassata / frizzante or naturale, sparkling or still water, and they'll bring you the bottle, which is generally cheaper than in France (€1.50 to €4 a bottle).

Children are welcome in all Milanese restaurants. It's easy to get a high chair or a simplified dish.

As in France, smoking is banned in enclosed spaces in Italy, including restaurants.

Milan is a business town, with little interest in mass tourism, and has escaped the invasion of touristy addresses, complete with touts and photos of dishes in the window. However, you'll find a few of these around the Duomo; needless to say, they're not to be missed.

Any time of the day is a good time to indulge at the bar or café. The Milanese like to have breakfast at the counter between 7 and 9 a.m., but also to stop mid-morning for an espresso. The same applies after lunch, with long queues to swallow their coffees before returning to work. In the evening, the aperitivi ballet starts at around 6.30pm and goes on until 9pm.

A coffee at the counter costs between €1.20 and €1.50, a cappuccino (or cappuccio, as the Milanese often call it!) between €1.30 and €2. Prices rise quickly if you decide to sit down. Count between €4 and €7 for a squeezed orange, and €1 or €1.50 for a small bottle of water. An aperitivo will cost you between €7 and €15, always accompanied by plenty of appetizers. Some places offer real buffets for the price of a cocktail, and many make it their dinner. For a good two-flavored ice cream, expect to pay between €3 and €4.50.

Although Milan is in dispute with Turin and Genoa as the originator of theaperitivo, it is certainly Milan that has given it its letters of nobility. Whether you're a student, just out of the office or after a shopping spree, you'll find yourself enjoying a drink and the goodies that go with it from 7pm onwards. No matter what your age, you'll always be dressed to the nines! We order the timeless spritz and mojito, but the locals also like to sip small flutes of prosecco, the Italian sparkling wine that rivals champagne.

As soon as the fine weather arrives, the ice-cream parlors are in full swing, both for afternoon tea and after dinner, offering a choice of cono (cone) or coppetta (cup) in a variety of flavors. Please note: you can add panna (whipped cream) to your ice cream for an extra charge.

All the cafés offer brioches and pizzettes, which the little ones love to munch on for breakfast or a snack. And among the city's many ice cream parlors, children will have fun finding their favorite flavor.

Bars and cafés in Milan are non-smoking.