Protected by the sea, built between bridges and canals, Venice fascinates as much as a precious stone in a sealed box. Formerly jealous for its pomp, libertinism and independence, today it seems to inspire calm, romanticism and sweetness of life like its gondolas sliding on the lagoon. This magical setting enchants all passions ; it offers a marvellous interlude in a city with an artistic richness that is unique in the world. Speaking of art, the end of the summer brings together the world's top filmmakers for the prestigious Venice Mostra, the festival held on the Lido beach. A great opportunity to discover the City of the Doges.
A living museum
The " centre-ville " of Venice undulates around the Grand Canal and the districts (sestieri) San Marco and San Polo/Santa Croce. Nothing from compliqué ! Take the ligne 1 or 82 boat-bus to cross the canal. Starting from Santa Lucia station, the " visite " starts at Ca' Pesaro, a baroque palace with a gigantism that was decried in its time and which today houses the Museum of Modern and Oriental Art. The Ca' d'Oro (San Stae stop) is one of the most famous and beautiful Venetian buildings, thanks to the delicacy of its architecture, in flowery Gothic style. The first large loop of the canal also passes through the Ponte di Rialto, which was the only link between the two parts of the city up to XIXe siècle. It is the oldest of the four bridges that cross the canal and now houses shops under its arches
Continuing this walk, we reach Ca' Rezzonico (from the vaporetto stop of the same name), which was used for many official ceremonies during the republic. Converted into a Museum of Decorative Arts, it has become one of the must-sees of the visit
The second loop of the canal is the opportunity to pass in front of the Academy, whose works are those of the greatest Venetian painters that students of the Fine Arts should study. Also worth seeing is the palace in which patron and collector Peggy Guggenheim lived, converted into a museum in 1980. For contemporary art, visit Palazzo Grassi or Punta della Dogana, the foundations of the Pinault Group. This walk ends shortly after Saint Mark's Square, the Doge's Palace and the Bridge of Sighs. Taking this cruise at dusk is simply enchanting.
But many tourists come only for elle : the Piazza San Marco, which Bonaparte called " de the most elegant lounge of Europe ", is the place where a thousand and one wonders are concentrated. It was above all the political, religious, economic and social centre of the City of the Doges. For hundreds of years it has been one of the most lively places in Venice, lined with arcades and monuments. Among them, the Basilica of San Marco was built to house the remains of the holy man, brought from Alexandria by merchants. With its relics, the city hoped to become the equal of Rome in Christianity. On the square, we find the winged lion, symbol of this martyr, as well as on frescoes, paintings, flags... The originality of this basilica lies in the unique blend of styles that make it up (its Greek cross shape, its five domes, the mosaics of its façade); its doors close at 17 h, so a small conseil : arrive before the opening (9 h 45) so as not to have to endure the queue. Another option, if you're in line ennuie : enjoy a Venetian cappuccino " de luxe " on the terrace of the Caffe Florian, founded in 1720. For those who are already hungry, the Bistro di Venezia or the Noemi offer typical cuisine in historic establishments
An eternal palace
Also to the east of the square, the Doge's Palace was the centre of Venetian power during the Republic of Venice. It housed the leaders of the Venetians until 1789. Of Gothic architecture, it offers a three-hour visit during which you can admire the works of Tiepolo or Titian, as well as its rooms decorated by the Tintoretto, among others. This palace is a place that also embodies the dark side of the sumptuous city. For example, the two pink marble columns on the upper gallery of édifice : it's between them that the sentences of the convicts were announced, and this place could even be used as gibet !... Moreover, this palace also housed the prisons under its roofs. Another prison was built, connected to the palace only by the Bridge of Sighs. Also, this bridge does not bear his name in reference to lovers, but rather in memory of the complaints of prisonniers !
The Doge's Palace conceals many other mysteries as a hidden area in half floors conceals a whole secret administration that everyone can imagine policed and cruel ... To finish the visit to St. Mark's Square, it is possible to enjoy a magnificent view of the city from the top of the Campanile, rising almost 100 mètres above the ground. Collapsed in 1902 and rebuilt identically, it remains in people's minds the oldest building in the piazza
Some Venetian pleasures..
To finish this route, stop at Zattere. On this quay, you will be able to digest by tasting a gianduitto, this hazelnut, chocolate and homemade whipped cream ice cream. Not far from there, it is necessary to go and see the bridge of the Academy, the only one left in bois ; opening your eyes, you can also cross a bridge called pugni ( poings ) in reference to the rival communities that came to confront each other there. The toponymy of Venice is particularly remarquable : names of inns, illustrious families, characteristics of all kinds or craftsmen locaux ; will you have the audacity to borrow a malcanton (" mauvais lieu ") or a street assassini ? In the evening, Campo San Bartolomeo is the meeting point of the Venetians, but Saint Mark's Square will be the perfect place to meet at some point inoubliable : listen to the orchestras playing Vivaldi or Monteverdi, these Venetian composers, and while waiting for the cicchetti (Venetian tapas that can be tasted in a bacari), you can take a Spritz ! This local aperitif, a blend of prosecco, seltzer, Aperol or Campari, is not the only drink that Venice has to offer offrira : maraschino, for example, will delight lovers of cherry liqueur, while valpolicella, the best wine in the Veneto region, will delight connoisseurs. Music on the terrace, evening light, walks along the quays... this is Venice in all its intimacy.
Long live the cinema!
Venice, worthy of the most beautiful film sets, also lends its finery to the Mostra, the oldest film festival in the world. This event is part of the Contemporary Art Biennial (organized in the fall of odd years).
But every year, as the summer draws to a close, the world's finest in the seventh art rushes to the Lido and hopes to receive a Golden Lion, like the Palme Cannoise. You'll have to elbow your way down the red carpet and you might get a "priceless" picture of the "Brangelina" with the Lido beach in the background. In 2016, the festival will celebrate its 73rd edition. The president of the jury will be Sam Mendes and the official selection will be made of directors such as Wim Wenders (Les Beaux Jours d'Aranjuez, with Reda Kateb), Emir Kusturica (On the Milky Road, with Monica Bellucci) or Terrence Malick (Voyage of time), to mention only them. And the winner is..
Smart info
When? We can go all year round. At the beginning of September, there are fewer tourists, the heat is more bearable and it's time for the Mostra. This year, between August 31 and September 10, attend the largest film festival in Italy.
Getting there. By train, plane or car, anything is possible.
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