Introduction to Tuscan vineyards
Wine is a true economic reality in the Tuscan countryside, a way of life, almost a philosophy, in any case a treasure to be shared as you explore its landscapes and meet its producers. Epicurean friends, what better way to penetrate the soul of a region than to discover its terroir?
Tuscany's vineyards cover some 86,000 hectares, 20,000 of which are DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) and DOCG (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin). Sangiovese is the standard-bearer of Tuscan wines, an emblematic red grape variety capable of great feats. As in France, there are generic appellations and, within this zone, some forty communal appellations (Bianco di Pitigliano, Elba, Rosso di Montalcino, Valdichiana, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano...). Among these is the unmissable Chianti Classico.
Before setting out on the Chianti roads, interspersed with cypress trees and encounters with passionate winegrowers, a good starting point for sharpening your palate and refining your knowledge might be the Casa Chianti Classico museum in Radda. An interesting sensory tour should enable you to distinguish a Classico from a Riserva at the end of the visit.
In addition to the unmissable wine routes criss-crossing the Chianti region, we've chosen to introduce you to lesser-known, but always well-marked and no less tasty, itineraries combining culture, viticulture and wine tasting. Salute!
The Chianti, king of Tuscany, and his road called "La Chiantigiana"..
Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP), Chianti actually covers a much larger territory than its namesake region. Of the eight production zones, the one that perfectly encapsulates all its soul and vitality, and which forms a highly recommended oenological itinerary, is the Chianti Classico appellation zone. Its production covers 7,000 hectares between the provinces of Florence and Siena, including the communes of Castellina, Radda, Gaiole and Greve in Chianti, and, partially, the communes of San Casciano, Tavarnelle, Val di Pesa, Barberino, Val d'Elsa and Castelnuovo Berardenga. These boundaries, instituted by a law of 1929, correspond in fact to those already established in 1716 by a decree of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. The Gallo Nero association, whose black cockerel is emblazoned on the neck of each bottle, is made up of more than 800 particularly active wineries. In the past, grape varieties were often mixed, but today, the most Italian of red wines is essentially made from the noble black Sangiovese grape.
The homeland of wine, Chianti has always borne the names of illustrious families: Ricasoli, Firidolfi, Capponi, Cavalcanti..., all owners of palaces, abbeys and immense estates endowed with extremely fertile land. A perfect harmony between man and nature reigns here, with landscapes modeled like Leonardo da Vinci paintings and the constant geometry of the vines, amid rich vegetation and forests of oak, ash and chestnut. The entrances to the farms are often lined with cypresses, while from the earth rise scents of heather, iris, lavender and violet. Chianti introduces visitors to one of Tuscany's other most beautiful facets: gastronomy, through its cured meats and wines. Cellars await the curious, as do the small villages lost in the gentle hills that stretch between Florence and Siena.
On the famous Chiantigiana wine route (SR 222), many wineries open their doors to the public by reservation, and tastings are generally free with the purchase of bottles, otherwise you should expect to pay an average of €10 to taste three different wines. Here are a few wineries that are well worth a visit:
La Castellina, which cultivates 30 hectares of vines on the hills of Castellina in Chianti, produces mainly Chianti Classico. These dense, round wines, including the cuvée Tommaso Bojola Riserva (named after its talented winemaker), are sold from the Palazzo Squarcialupi, now owned by the Bojola-Targioni family. A visit to this 15th-century palace is highly recommended, especially the basement cellars and the oenotheque, which houses some very fine bottles. The same producer also offers lunch at Taverna Squarcialupi.
Marchese Antinori, the "superstar" of Italian wine, invites the aesthete to his new 26,000 m² cellars, located on the "Chiantigiana", near Bargino. Very impressive! The estate has made a major contribution to the renaissance of Chianti. Marquis Piero Antinori represents the twenty-sixth generation of this dynasty of Tuscan winegrowers, who arrived in Tuscany in the 13th century. Already a certain idea of sustainable development, isn't it? From the most affordable to the most sumptuous, wines come in a wide range of prices and tastes. Among our fondest memories is the garnet-red Chianti Classico Riserva: a blend of Sangiovese and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for a pleasant, fruity cherry aroma.
Vignamaggio, south of Greve in Chianti, is one of Tuscany's oldest agricultural estates. Not only a winery, but also a high-end agriturismo and restaurant, the estate offers tours of its entire property, which comprises some 140 hectares dedicated to vineyards and a further 22 to olive cultivation. You can taste the Chianti Classico DOCG, made exclusively from Sangiovese, the Chianti Classico Riserva, a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot, as well as their delicious extra-virgin olive oil. Visitors are even offered a selection of local salumi and cheeses.
Wine routes in the Siena area
The Sienese countryside, with its picturesque villages and sacred vineyards, is criss-crossed by two renowned wine and culture routes. The first, the "Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" route, allows you to discover the Montepulciano region, its culture, its traditional products and its natural, cultural and historical treasures. An oeno-gastronomic tourism of choice! The origins of this wine go back a long way, and are intimately linked to the history of Montepulciano. The presence of wonderfully integrated cellars in the town's historic center is perfect testimony to this. Why "vino nobile"? Because this expensive wine was the privilege of European nobility. Such was its renown that, as early as 1350, it was exported abroad; Pope Paul III praised its admirable qualities and Voltaire quoted it in Candide.
Cantine Contucci, a must-have in the region, whose remarkable cellar, housed in a 16th-century palazzo, stands in Piazza Grande, Montepulciano's highest point. The Contucci family has been producing wine since the mid-17th century. Forty generations later, Andrea Contucci is here, making a Vin Noble of great intensity, with aromas of wild red fruits. Superb!
The second Sienese wine route is dedicated to Brunello di Montalcino. A prestigious Tuscan appellation for this DOCG red wine of legendary power, based on the noble local Sangiovese grape. This nectar is considered Italy's most expensive wine. The first official vintage dates back to 1888. It was in the 1870s that the young winemaker Ferruccio Biondi Santi replanted his grape variety with one that was particularly resistant to phylloxera. Ferruccio sought to depart from local traditions and experimented with long aging in oak barrels, followed by a further period of bottle refinement. Brunello, the perfect accompaniment to bistecca alla fiorentina, comes from the area around the small town of Montalcino, some 40 kilometers south of Siena.
Fattoria dei Barbi, between Montalcino and Scansano, is a famous estate owned since 1790 by the Colombini family, a noble Sienese family. It produces a superb array of wines including Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (a marriage of power, elegance and classicism), Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Morellino di Scansano DOCG..
"Strada del Vino dei Colli di Candia e Lunigiana", in the province of Massa-Carrara
Here in northern Tuscany, the gray of the Apuan Alps, which rise to 2,000 meters above sea level, contrasts with the verdant, vine-covered plains. The history of wine in this region dates back to antiquity, but DOC recognition was granted in 1981 and IGT in 1995. This exclusive production zone is the birthplace of Vermentino, whose white is characterized by intense fruitiness and a light almond aroma, while the red is delicate and vinous.
Castel del Piano, an estate located in the little-known Lunigiana region (a land rich in tradition and history, named after the Moon), passionately produces natural wines such as the excellent Groppolungo, a blend of vermentino nero (an autochthonous grape variety), merlot and syrah. A mineral, ruby-colored wine with smooth tannins, it's the perfect accompaniment to bistecca alla fiorentina.
"Strada del Vino Lucca, Montecarlo e Versilia", in the province of Lucca
The region's wine route winds through contrasting landscapes, from the marble-white peaks of the Apuan Alps to the blue of the sea. This land of great variety benefits from ancient agriculture, nourished by centuries of rural cultivation, including vineyards and olive groves. Along the way, dotted with numerous renowned wineries, you can enjoy the DOC wines of Montecarlo and Colline Lucchesi, as well as Lucca's famous DOP olive oil.
Tenuta del Buonamico, near Montecarlo, is a 45-hectare estate admirably managed by the Fontana family. Their specialty? Vermentino, a single varietal known for its aromas of fresh apple, green almond and sweet spices. You can visit the winery, learn about the winemaking process and, of course, enjoy a tasting with the sommelier.
"Strada del Vino Colli di Maremma", in the province of Grosseto
In the south of Tuscany, this province offers an itinerary rich in oeno-gastronomic delights, yet largely ignored by tourists. Morellino di Scansano, Ansonica (Côte d'Argent), Bianco di Pitigliano, Capalbio, Sovana and Parrina are the DOCs and protagonists of local cuisine in this territory, where vine cultivation dates back to Etruscan times.
Podere Castellaccia, south of Grosseto, is a renowned estate typical of the Maremma region, with 11 hectares of vineyards. The Pellegrini family makes an excellent Morellino di Scansano DOC, essentially composed of sangiovese (90%), merlot (7%) and a touch of alicante (3%).
A final word of advice for the road! The best time of year to travel through Tuscany is before the harvest, generally at the beginning of September, when the branches bend under the weight of the ripe grapes. This period is also marked by countless harvest festivities, such as the Festa dell'Uva in Vagliagli, near Castelnuovo Berardenga, or in Capoliveri, on the island of Elba, or Vino al Vino in Panzano, in the Chianti region. All you have to do is taste!
