An unchanging ritual since the Middle Ages
Every summer, the streets and balconies of every contrada are decorated with flags and pennants. The two crazy horse races at the Palio, held on July 2 in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano and on August 16 for the Assumption, are preceded by the blessing of the man-horse couple in the church of their respective district. Each contrada in fact has its own church, but also its square, fountain, museum, hymn, flag, even its official website and, of course, its patron saint. Then the historical procession, the Passeggiata Storica
, parades through old Siena to the sound of military drums and trumpets, between puffy period costumes and flag-throwing. It is an incredible spectacle, both solemn and moving, probably from another time for the tourists who flock from all over the world, sometimes dumbfounded by so much emulation... A time that goes back to the Middle Ages, when the Florentines, the eternal rivals of Siena's Ghibelline, could hear nothing at the Palio, and thought the Sienese were madmen. Few medieval festivals have survived to this day with as much authenticity and liveliness as the Palio in Siena. As the crowd gathers in the centre of Piazza del Campo, transformed into an extraordinary racecourse, and the tension is at its height, just before the race, the Carroccio, a chariot drawn by four enormous white oxen, circles the square, proudly hoisting the Drappellone, the coveted flag handed over to the winning district. This trophy symbolizes the pride and haughtiness of an entire contrada for an entire year. In fact, it also gives all the rights to mock and taunt the losing neighbourhoods.Just a 75 second run?
Certainly not! Such an assertion could attract the wrath of the Sienese. The Palio, this unbridled cavalcade, is in fact an extremely competitive tournament, all sprinkled with a fierce rivalry between the ten participating districts (out of the existing seventeen). Chauvinism then reaches proportions rarely equalled. Some residents are so anxious that they prefer to stay away from the show! It is one of the most important cultural events on the Italian peninsula. You probably have to be Sienese to understand its full scope, because this is a very serious matter. On the sidelines, for example, married couples from different historical districts do not hesitate to separate during the period before the race.
The highlight of Sienese patriotism is that nowadays the Palio is run by professional jockeys, often from Sardinia (because of their small size), and no longer by children from the city. In addition, the loser in the race is the one who finishes second and not last. As for the horse, which wears the colours of the quarter from mane to hooves, it is designated by drawing lots only four days before the race. Singular, isn't it?
Another particularity of the Palio of Siena is its wild side: it is an old-fashioned race, raw (without saddle) and without special rules, as if it took place during its first edition. All blows are therefore allowed, in the true sense of the word! Falls can sometimes be dangerous, the horse can even win without its rider (which is frequent), and the sums involved are considerable... The sulphurous reputation of the Palio, between stories of doping and rigged races, undoubtedly fuels this already over-excited atmosphere. Furious, heroic and bestial, this race also reflects the ever-present importance of the contrade system.
It's time to go! When the sound of the cannon resounds, the rope falls, the horses hurl themselves and the crowd exalts, between fear and enthusiasm. Three towers in Piazza del Campo, covered with clay for the occasion, are certainly very short (between 75 and 90 seconds), but above all it is frenetic, of unparalleled intensity because, amidst the screams, time has frozen. Victory is sacred, it gives rise to spectacular scenes of jubilation. The winning rider (fantini) receives his silk Drappellone painted in the collegiate church of Santa Maria in Provenzano on July 2, and in the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta on August 16. A gigantic dinner then takes place in the heart of the proud contrada winner. Know that the district of the Goose, from the top of its 66 victories, is the most victorious in the history of the Palio!Cruel, the palio?
Some voices are raised against the immutable tradition of the Palio of Siena and its excesses, considered by the most ardent animal defenders as cruel and damaging to Italy's image. In 2011, at the initiative of several animal protection associations, including the recognised Italian Horse Protection, an international petition is launched to demand a ban on the use of horses during the Palio. Since 1970, about 50 horses have died as a result of violent falls during racing or training. The track is slippery and the turns dangerous. Yes, it is a hard, risky race, and riders can ride other horses... and riders. But many Sienese respond to these criticisms by emphasizing the care given to the horses that run the Palio, notably through an agreement with a veterinary clinic located near the city, as well as the peaceful retirement of equines financed by the municipality.
It should be noted that the "modern" form of the Palio dates back to 1650, after a long evolution of the games that took place in Piazza del Campo, such as donkey and buffalo races, which themselves followed the prohibition of bullfighting by the Council of Trent in the 16th century. The Palio is therefore far from being just a celebration, it is a ritual, it is the pride of the contrade, for whom the horse is also the object of a true cult. It is hard to imagine today the slightest change, let alone the crazy hypothesis of cancelling this mythical race, which is as popular in Italy as a national team football world cup match!
