Delicious isolated coves, impressive cliffs but also beautiful expanses of fine sand, the Costa Brava can also boast the idyllic blue of the sea, ideal temperatures and numerous infrastructures dedicated to holidaymakers. As for heritage, the route is just as complete with a range from megalithic sites to modernism and its local variation, Indiana architecture, Iberian sites, Romanesque art and military architecture. Above all, it is a must for Salvador Dalí lovers who flock to visit his museum-houses. In short, an ideal destination when it comes to planning your holidays.
Salvador Dalí, a local child
In Catalonia, the fervour surrounding this surrealist painter, born and dead in the region, is strongly perceptible. To share it, you will have to go to the Upper Impurdan (Alt Empordà), a key region for understanding his "cosmic" work. This journey will take you to Figueres, Portlligat and Púbol where its house museums reflect the personality of the master. All you have to do is be patient. But to approach the work of a "genius" is at this price. Eccentric, buffoon, genius and provocative, there is no shortage of terms to describe Salvador Dalí's personality (1904-1989). Whether he is crazy about Lanvin chocolate, his muse Gala, or whether he is building the Perpignan station as the centre of the world, Dalí has left a very abundant work that can be discovered in part in the theatre-museum he created in Figueres, his native city. Whether ironic visions of reality or hallucinatory, his works were born out of the technique of investigating the irrational through delirium, known as the "paranoid-critical method".
Cadaqués and Portlligat, in the footsteps of the master
All white dressed between the olive terraces, Cadaqués is a charming village. At the beginning of the 20th century, when the terraces surrounding it were still covered with vines, it was artists such as Marx Ernst, Paul Eluard, René Magritte, Federico García Lorca, André Breton and Luis Buñuel who brought this charming and tiny fishing port into fashion. Of course, Salvador Dalí, who lived in Portlligat in the 1960s and contributed so much to Cadaqués' international reputation, also had a strong influence on his personality. Today, this small port of less than 3,000 inhabitants still attracts artists, painters and writers, even if the constructions of recent decades have slightly reduced its cubist profile. Nicknamed a little quickly Saint-Tropez de la Costa, it evokes the atmosphere of Saint-Martin-en-Ré, a Mediterranean sun in addition. Perhaps it is due to the feeling of still being on an island... On the downside, the village has become expensive, with prices sometimes exceeding those of Paris and tourists who flock in summer. It should therefore be visited preferably out of season and out of the weekend, ideally. As the 15 km of curves allowing access to it continue, it is better to stay a few days
On site, you will of course walk through the maze of steep streets, with white facades and flowered balconies, which can be accessed from an arch overlooking the port, among other places. It is also an opportunity to discover the galleries, fashion boutiques and small restaurants that have settled there. In the end, you will reach the church of Santa Maria, the highest point of the village, a long time refuge since this privileged point allowed you to see the pirates arrive. The current church is from the 18th century but retains the Gothic form of its origins and houses an emblematic altarpiece of the popular Baroque of the Ampurdan. In summer, you can attend many concerts and, from its esplanade, you will enjoy a beautiful view of the village and the sea. Back on the port, on the left, facing the sea, you will notice the Casa Serinyana. A modernist building with floral motifs of blue earthenware and wrought iron dating from 1910, its high facade overlooking the sea. Cadaqués is also a whole series of calas: Es Caials, Ses Oliveres, Sa Conca... to discover by following the seaside, either to the right or to the left. In the program of your discoveries, add also the paths to Cala Nans (about 3 km) and to Cap de Creus (about 8 km). Finally, the Museum of Cadaqués, rue Narcis Montuniol, presents exclusively temporary exhibitions, in particular around the work of artists linked to the village: Dalí, Pichot, Niebla, Picasso, etc.
Then, direction Portlligat, 1 km north of Cadaqués. The village was built in a pretty bay where a very small fishing port remains. Portlligat owes its fame to Salvador Dalí. After spending many months there during his childhood and adolescence, he decided to build his house, the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí, which is the main attraction of the place, attracting an ever-growing number of visitors. We are far from the concrete coast and you can swim there even if it is not the quietest place to do so.
From a small fishermen's house bought in 1930, the painter himself designed and fitted out the various complexes that now form this museum-house. The visit is done in two stages. You will be guided through the apartments and will discover his studio, his library, his room and the pretty terraces. You are free to discover other elements such as the swimming pool, which is quite surreal, and the gardens that will take you to the heights. With a pretty view of the whole to top it all off and a video corner presenting the life of Salvador Dalí. The first part is very strictly timed and it is the time indicated for the visit. This allows a relatively smooth visit, despite the number of visitors.
Figueres and the incredible Dalí Theatre-Museum
With more than 45,000 inhabitants, Figueres is the capital of the Comarca (region) of Alt Empordà (Haut-Ampurdan). A commercial city and a crossroads of communications, the city has developed an important tourist activity thanks to the Dalí Theatre-Museum, one of the most visited museums in Spain. If, during the day and on weekends, the city fills up with tourists, the rest of the time, it regains its tranquility as a small provincial town. Its centre is located around the rambla, a pretty promenade shaded by plane trees, but its other point of excitement is a little to the north, in the pedestrian district that hosts the famous museum dedicated to the surrealist painter. If a stay in Figueres will of course involve his visit, the discovery of the fortress of Castell de Sant Ferran is another must. The city also has many museums, easily accessible during a stroll through the main streets
But the Dalí Theatre-Museum is Figueres' main attraction and the crowd is crowded to discover all its works. Installed since 1968 in the former municipal theatre, it is quite disconcerting. According to Dalí's wish, no explanation is given to visitors. The master defined it as follows: "This museum cannot be considered as a museum, it is a gigantic surrealist object, where everything is coherent and where nothing escapes my understanding. "In the Dalinian Sistine Chapel, you will notice the visual effect of Lincoln's portrait, Gala's painting of the sea and Beethoven's portrait in octopus ink; in the former theatre floor is the rainy Cadillac. Stereoscopy allows you to see the paintings in perspective. The booklet on sale at the entrance helps to guide you, but gives little explanation. The museum has recently moved into the Torre Galatea, the painter's former home
Practical, a package is now available to combine a visit to the city and a visit to the Dalí Theatre-Museum. For the sum of 20 €, you will be entitled to one hour of guided tour of Figueres and 4 hours in the museum. With a 20-minute break between the two, as the tour leaves and returns to the museum itself. It will then be time to enjoy the charms of the region, between idleness, gastronomy and fiesta!
Smart info
When? When? It can be visited all year round. But the best times are spring and autumn with pleasant temperatures and fewer people than in summer.
Getting there. By car, train, plane (via Barcelona), everything is possible.
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