Protected from the fresh winds coming from the north through the Montserrat massif and enjoying a proximity to the Mediterranean, the vines of Penedès have prospered here since time immemorial. In this vast territory stretching between Barcelona and Tarragona, the precious grapes enjoy a dream climate, and the wine trade has profoundly shaped the identity of Vilafranca del Penedès, capital of the Alt Penedès. Located at a natural crossroads of Catalonia, on the edge of the ancient Via Augusta, the city preserves in its stones the traces of a thousand-year-old history and its some 40,000 inhabitants do not forget to honour their traditions, at least as much as the pleasures of the table!
A medieval heritage...
At the edge of the Christian and Muslim territories of the time, Vilafranca del Penedès gradually stretched from the 12th century onwards, something that can be measured by walking through its old centre
Let's start with the Palau Reial, a 13th century Gothic building that saw King Pere III of Aragó die in 1285 and recently became home to the VINSEUM, a museum dedicated to regional wines. On the other side of Piazza Jaume I stands Palau Baltà, a splendid Gothic residence built in 1308, whose courtyard, framed by a gallery of pointed arches, is said to have been the site of the signature of the Vilafranca Competition (which partly triggered the civil war between the Crown and Catalans) in 1461. Next door, Santa Maria Basilica casts the shadow of its countless and fantastic gargoyles. Built on the remains of a Romanesque temple - the paintings overlooking the portal are authentic -, its single five-bay nave houses as many beautifully sized side chapels. The church bell tower is very popular with visitors and a glass of wine can be enjoyed at sunset. This medieval tour will be completed by the Claustre de Sant Francesc, the unique and superb remains of a 13th century Franciscan convent, now a pantheon of the city's illustrious nobles
... and modernist
After difficult times, from war to epidemics, the city experienced a period of growth allowed by wine culture, drastically curbed by phylloxera in the 19th century, before picking up again at the turn of the last century. A symbol of progress and opulence, the modernist current swept across Europe, and Vilafranca built some notable buildings such as the Casa de la Vila, an old Gothic palace that the eminent Santiago Güell i Grau remodelled in 1912, incorporating floral elements and elegant balustrade lanterns. It is to the same man that we owe the Casa de la Festa Major, with its windows surrounded by exposed bricks - now the Museum of the Great Festival of August 30, Sant Fèlix, a crucial moment for the three local groups of castellers (human castles) - but above all the Casa Miró, the most exemplary modernist building in the city, combining in finesse and sobriety the sensual curves of the structures with ornamental details carved in glass, marble and precious wood. This innovative trend also affects the religious field, as we will see when we appreciate the striking Christ sculpted by Josep Llimona in 1916 in the crypt of the Basilica. The walk will end with a walk in the alleys of the remarkable Vilafranca cemetery, lined with splendid mausoleums of romantic inspiration designed by renowned architects such as Santiago Güell, August Font or Antoni Pons
Wine Capital
It is impossible to mention Vilafranca without addressing its wine culture, which is the real driving force behind the local economy. Internationally recognized, the labels on D.O. Penedès bottles continue to delight epicureans: dry criança whites, sparkling wines (cava), sweet rosés and reds of character, with Xarel-lo as the king grape variety. Before tasting, visitors will have the opportunity to walk or cycle through the surrounding countryside, and even explore some cellars such as those of Bodegues Miguel Torres or Mas Tinell. In the city, the Antoni Mascaró and Pinord houses are prime oenological stops, as much as the rue Comerç, once the central axis of viticulture, dotted with buildings with singular architecture. The investigation continues at the VINSEUM, a newly inaugurated museum exploring the impact of winegrowing activity on the evolution of the Penedès. Then, finally (!), let's do some practical work around one of the city's excellent restaurants! No bad choices here: all of them tactfully combine local and seasonal cuisine - the black rooster of the Penedès is a must! - with a selective and wide range of wines, of course!
Smart info
When? When? The summer period is the perfect time to visit Vilafranca del Penedès. At the beginning of July, the Vijazz festival takes place, combining jazz music and wine tasting, while on 30 August the city's patron saint's festival is in full swing and the "human tours" reach their peak. Autumn and winter are also recommended seasons, with vines tinted with shimmering colours and seasonal products generously filling the plates: in mid-December the Rooster Fair is held!
Getting there. By train, plane, car or bus, everything is possible.
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Duration. A weekend seems an appropriate time to discover Vilafranca del Penedès. With more time, however, we will have the opportunity to discover its surroundings.
Public. The warm welcome of the inhabitants is not reserved for any particular category of visitors. Couples, families and friends are welcome. History and architecture enthusiasts as well as wine lovers will find their happiness
The pluses. An appreciable proximity to Barcelona.
A rich and unsuspected architectural heritage.
A strong wine-growing culture and varied products.
Useful. To prepare your escapade as well as possible.
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