Medieval Moscow
The Russian capital was born from a fortified settlement in the 10th century.Its development is retraced in the Museum of Archaeology
installed in the basement on the site of the excavations. Considered the founder of Moscow, Yuri Dolgoruki built in 1156 a kremlin including the young merchant town. Thereafter, the Tatar yoke pushed the Russian princes out of the cities along the Volga. Alexander Nevsky, a national hero and holy figure, settles his son Daniel in Moscow. The art of icons spread in Russia from the 11th century. These images, which are meant to accompany prayer, are painted by monks. The sedentary monks copied local traditions, while the more nomadic ones incorporated new influences. The Andrei Rublev Museum preserves world-famous religious works from the 11th to 17th centuries, such as paintings from the workshops of Macaire (Moscow region) and the Mannerist icon entitled Saviour of Gavchinki. From Rublev, the Tretyakov Gallery has an exceptional collection of icons including The Trinity. Also known as theHospitality of Abraham, it shows three angels haloed with harmony and peace.Golden age of the Orthodox icon
The Orthodox icon reached its golden age in the 14th and 15th centuries, while Western Europe abandoned this art. Several schools of iconography emerged, notably in Kiev, Suzdal and Moscow, which became a major centre of production. Ivan I obtained the support of the Church, and in 1327 Moscow became the capital of an expanding territory. For more than forty years, Ivan the Great pursued a policy of unification. The country thus consolidated opens up to external contributions.
In 1395, Prince Vasily brought back to Moscow the Byzantine icon representing the Virgin Mary and the Child Jesus, offered to Russia by Constantinople. That same year, the ruthless Tamerlane coveted the capital. Instead of taking up arms, the Muscovites prayed to Our Lady of Vladimir. Tamerlan's change of heart and Moscow escapes the worst. Then in 1451 and 1480, the Mongols threaten to burn Moscow to the ground. Once again, the Orthodox prayed the icon and the Virgin Mary granted their wishes. From then on, the Russians devoted real veneration to the icon.
The great era of the Orthodox icon ran out of steam in the 16th century. Nevertheless, these holy images remain a traditional element present in all Russian homes. At the beginning of the 17th century, the accession of Michael Romanov to the throne marked the beginning of a period of stability. The last tsar of medieval Russia, Alexis Romanov, died in 1676.Modern times
. Conceived as a centre of study, replicas of masterpieces of world sculpture are commissioned from the best European workshops to serve as models for students. Today, its rich collection of originals includes 670,000 pieces covering the entire history of art: Ancient Egypt, Italian and Flemish Renaissance, but also Van Gogh, Chirico, Dufy, Gauguin, Braque and many others.Between 1907 and 1917, an avant-garde of unprecedented dynamism was at the service of the emerging society. These artists aspired to produce a collective art that would convey a political message to the general public. The solution was provided by the theatre. Tatline, Natalia Gontcharova and Malevitch created sets for shows.
The first abstract work was painted in 1913. Who painted it? It is difficult to say with certainty whether Kandinsky's Composition really preceded Malevich's sketch of the Black Square on a White Background for the set of the futuristic opera Victory over the Sun
. One thing is certain, abstraction has turned the notion of art upside down.Despite the context of instability and economic fragility, the avant-garde enjoys unprecedented freedom. Its representatives founded 36 museums and revolutionized the educational system. In Moscow, the artistic unit led by Tatlin brought together Kandinsky, Malevich and Rozanova. In the collections they built up, preference was given to Futurism and Suprematism. Russia became the first country to exhibit abstract art. This network led by Rodchenko elects Moscow as one of the 13 "museums of artistic culture". The young artists who supported suprematism turned away from it to form around Tatline constructivism, an anonymous art that uses the technique of the artist-worker.
Malevitch was marginalized. Nevertheless, in 1919, at the 10th state exhibition "Abstract Creation and Suprematism", he showed his white squares on a white background to which Rodchenko responded with his black squares on a black background. The Russian avant-garde occupies a prominent place in the Museum of Modern Art - MMOMA, which also houses sculptures and lithographs by masters of the 20th century and contemporary art.Art and politics
With the Communist Party coming to power, icons were banned, as were all religious symbols. In 1918, Lenin transferred the capital of Soviet Russia to Moscow. Many historic churches were demolished to make room for his great plans. Under Stalin, skyscrapers were erected and the avenues magnificently extended to compete with America.
in Moscow. On the other hand, the pictorialists Alexander Grinberg, Max Penson, Yuri Yeremin and Nikolai Svichov-Paola were looking for aesthetics. Max Penson became interested in photography in 1921. This movement brought photography closer to painting for its artistic value, which is based on "human" intervention, i.e. the manipulation and treatment of the image. The Moscow House of Photography houses both classical and contemporary collections of mainly Russian artists. Open to foreign photographers, the Centre for Light Photography organizes specialized temporary exhibitions.Nowadays
The abundance of galleries and art centers contributes to the new trendy Moscow lifestyle. The only downside is that there is no need to hunt down street art. Following a recent decree, the rare urban works are systematically erased. On the other hand, Moscow's young institutions love the younger generation. The Garage Museum of Contemporary Art strives to make contemporary art from all over the world known to the general public. The Winzadov Contemporary Art Centre, housed in a converted former brewery, brings together modern Russian art galleries, artists' studios, a café and a concert hall. Several major projects are in preparation, all financed by businessmen, such as the much-anticipated contemporary art centre that will be built in the heart of the city.Golden Ring
The lush Golden Ring region lies between the Volga and Kliazma rivers. It is home to remarkable princely cities built between the 12th and 17th centuries. Several centuries of Russian history can be retraced in these open-air museums, which abound in jewels of all artistic disciplines
Accessible by suburban train, Serguiev Possad is the only city of the Golden Ring integrated into the Moscow oblast. Within its monastery, famous for its blue starry domes, the Trinity Cathedral is adorned with frescoes by the great painter Andreïv Roublev
Further afield, in the Yaroslavl region, Pereslavl Zalessky is one of the oldest cities on the tour. The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour, where Prince Alexander Nevsky is said to have been baptised, is located on the river bank and houses recently restored frescoes. The course of the Volga River continues to Yaroslav, prized for its mural ornamentation. In 1658, a fire in the city miraculously spared the interior of the Church of the Prophet Elijah. Afterwards it was decorated with frescoes by two Kostroma artists: Nikitin and Savin. Around the carved iconostasis, their works illustrate the life of the prophet among scenes of rural life.
The Art Museum displays icons of the Yaroslav school including the famous 13th century Christ Pandokrátor. There is also a gallery of old portraits of local petty bourgeois and a room of Russian avant-garde.
Two public sculptures to see: the war memorial showing the soldier allied to the worker. More modern, the black sculpture of the Trinity made by Mukhin in 1995 on the occasion of the millennium of the evangelization of Russia. It emanates from the three pure silhouettes a shocking depth.
The small town of Rostov contains several interesting museums, including the Regional Museum of Fine Arts, which has several collections: Russian art from the 16th to 19th centuries, ancient icons, ancient secular art, but above all paintings, drawings and sculptures from the early 20th century. After a detour to the Museum of Enamels, don't miss the three typical Moscow Baroque churches, entirely covered with frescoes
Kostroma, the cradle of the Romanov house and the furthest destination from Moscow. The Epiphany Monastery of Anastasia houses the icon of the Mother of God Fedorov, venerated by the Orthodox community. Dating from the 10th century, it is said to have been painted by the evangelist Luke. The Church of the Resurrection of the Debra seems unreal with its carved facades and colourful frescoes. The inserts that adorn its doors with the effigy of a unicorn, a mermaid and a two-headed eagle are associated with the Feast of the Resurrection.
Less touristy, Ivanovo, the capital of calico, has a rich museum of fine arts including antiques, European art of the last five centuries and many Russian masters.
Vladimir was founded in 1108. The ancient fortified village has seen the emergence of a modern town with precious remains. A long walk will take you from its many gates to the various cathedrals in Sobornaya Square. The Dormition Cathedral houses precious frescoes by Andrei Rublev, the most famous Russian icon painter. Outside, the monument to Prince Vladimir and St. Theodore stands on the heights of Pushkin Park, overlooking the Klyazma River. The bronze statue shows the prince on horseback accompanied by a bishop on foot. Nearby, the peaceful wooden-architectured town of Suzdal offers an almost intact image of 12th-century Russia.
