The origins of pizza
The origin of the word "pizza" has long been debated. The term appears for the first time in 997 in an archival document in medieval Latin from the cathedral of Gaeta. But the etymology of the word remains debated. A number of hypotheses point to the tumultuous history of southern Italy, invaded in the Middle Ages by various peoples of different origins and languages. For some, the word pizza may derive from the Lombard bizzo meaning "piece of bread". The term would therefore have a Germanic origin. Another, more commonly accepted hypothesis, looks for the word's origin in the Greek pitta meaning "bread cake", from which the modern Greek pita derives. The term was adopted between the 7th and 19th centuries, when the Byzantine Empire controlled much of southern Italy, and evolved into the word "pizza" in the 10th century. But the Gaetan document doesn't tell us exactly what the term means: at best, we can conclude that it refers to a bakery or pastry product. It wasn't until the 16th century that the first recipes for pizza appeared in culinary treatises. It is described as a sweet or savoury pie, filled with cheese, dried fruit and almonds, unless stuffed with pigeon meat and dates. Pizza also refers to a flaky or rolled cake, or focaccia (focaccia). We're still a long way from pizza as we know it! In the 16th century, pizza was already associated with the city of Naples.
Pizza, the popular Neapolitan dish
In the heart of the capital of the Kingdom of Naples and Sicily, focaccia-style pizzas are the order of the day. In the second half of the 17th century, Neapolitan bakers began offering it for sale, topped with lard, cheese and basil. This is a pizza bianca, as tomatoes were not introduced into the Italian diet until the 18th century. The pizza rossa, the result of a happy marriage between the tangy flavor of tomato and pizza dough, quickly dethroned its predecessor. In the eighteenth century, pizza enjoyed great success in Neapolitan working-class circles, thanks to its low cost and delicious taste. For the poorer sections of the population, living in homes without kitchens and forced to eat out, pizza was a nourishing and much-appreciated meal. It was prepared by pizzaioli and eaten on the premises, in the pizzeria (although the term did not appear until 1905), or bought on the street from lazzaroni, street vendors who bought from the pizzaioli and offered slices of pizza. The toppings became more varied: garlic, oregano, olive oil, small fish, mozzarella, prosciutto... In his laboratorio, the pizzaiolo works at a counter alongside which are bowls containing the various ingredients, in front of the wood-fired oven. An archive document from Naples, dated 1807, lists 54 establishments, and throughout the 19th century, this success continued unabated. Yet pizza remained confined to the city of Naples. It wasn't until the 20th century that it became a worldwide culinary phenomenon, emblematic of Italian culture. The spread of pizza did not begin in Naples, but in the New World, where Neapolitan emigrants brought their know-how with them. As early as the 1940s, Americans were seduced by its pie-like appearance, spread in a pie tin with plenty of cheese. Recovered by the food industry, pizza was sold in the frozen food section from 1957, then by the first franchised pizzeria chains. After the war, it once again crossed the Atlantic to conquer Europe, in parallel with Italian immigration, which had resumed since 1946. Today, pizza is one of the world's most popular dishes. France, which consumes an average of ten kilos per inhabitant per year, is the second biggest pizza consumer, after the United States and ahead of Italy.
The margherita pizza, the queen of pizzas
A thin layer of tomato sauce, slices of mozzarella di bufala (made from buffalo milk) or fior di latte (made from cow's milk), a few basil leaves and a dash of olive oil: in its simplicity, pizza margherita offers the perfect balance of flavors and aromas. A favorite with Italians, it has become a national culinary symbol in the country's colors. Its name is also a reference to a historical figure and anecdote that Neapolitans love to recall. During a royal visit to Naples in 1889, pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito was called to the Capodimonte Palace to prepare pizzas for King Umberto I and his wife Queen Marguerite of Savoy. Esposito offered pizzas with a variety of toppings, including pizza marinara and fried pizza with ricotta filling. However, it was the pizza with tomato, mozzarella and basil that was Queen Marguerite's favorite. Esposito named it "pizza margherita" in honor of the sovereign. The wood-fired oven used back then still exists and is still functional: it stands at the back of Capodimonte Park and was relit on December 6, 2017 to celebrate the entry of the Neapolitan pizzaioli art into Unesco's intangible heritage. The event brought together Naples' most famous pizzaioli (from pizzerias Sorbillo, Starita, Concettina ai Tre Santi, and La Notizia) who prepared the pizzas served in 1889. As for the father of the margherita pizza, the establishment where he worked in Naples still exists and is located on the outskirts of the Spanish quarters: the Brandi pizzeria proudly displays a commemorative plaque on its facade to recall the event, and keeps a letter of thanks signed by the maître d'hôtel of the Royal Household and dated 1889 (this is in fact a forgery, written by Raffaele Esposito's nephews when they took over the family pizzeria!).
What is a real Neapolitan pizza?
This point requires a little clarification: pizza napoletana should not be confused with the Neapolitan pizza offered on the menu of our pizzerias, which is a pizza topped with anchovies and capers. A true Neapolitan pizza is a traditional dish made according to the rules governing ingredients and preparation stages. TheAssociazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (Association of Real Neapolitan Pizza), founded in 1984, brought together the most renowned pizzaioli of the time to collect the traditions and know-how handed down over several generations. The result was a set of specifications defining the characteristics of a pizza made according to the rules of the art. A true Neapolitan pizza is baked over a wood fire, with an elastic, easily foldable dough, edged with the famous cornicione, the golden, soft crust. Made from soft wheat flour, water, yeast and salt, the dough is left to rise twice, between 8h and 24h, and is strictly rolled out by hand (no rolling pin allowed!). The Association recognizes only two variants: pizza margherita and pizza marinara, the latter topped with tomato, garlic, oregano and extra-virgin olive oil. Ingredients should preferably be of Campanian origin. Two simple toppings in just the right proportions, so as not to hide the flavor of the dough but, on the contrary, to enhance it: this is what pizza purists defend against the modern versions of "gourmet" pizzas offered by some Naples restaurants. But let's not deny ourselves the pleasure: a well-executed pizza topped with quality ingredients, whatever they may be, is a delight for the palate! To be enjoyed with a beer, as Italians do - who would never dream of accompanying their pizza with a glass of wine - or with a lightly sparkling regional red wine such as Gragnano DOC.
A small tour of the best pizzerias in Naples
To go to Naples without experiencing real Neapolitan pizza is to miss out on an authentic piece of heritage! Enjoying a pizza is as much a part of a Neapolitan getaway as visiting the National Archaeological Museum or strolling through the historic center. In any case, the aroma of wood-fired dough that emanates from certain establishments will soon break down any resistance. First point: in most pizzerias, the quality is top-notch, and the difference is mainly down to the ingredients selected. Second point: some well-known pizzerias are victims of their own success, and to get a table you have to be patient. Once you've eaten, you'll need to vacate your seat quickly, as the line outside is getting longer. Finally, despite its success, Neapolitan pizza remains a very democratic dish. In the historic center, Via Tribunali is sometimes nicknamed Via della Pizza for the number of pizzerias to be found there. The most famous is the Gino Sorbillo pizzeria. Founded in 1935 by Gino's grandparents, it is a world-famous pizzeria, easily spotted by the throngs of gourmands crowding the entrance. The brand has a second address on Via Partenope, in the Chiaia district facing the sea, as well as a number of establishments offering fried pizzas on the go. A little further on, at no. 94, Di Matteo is another historic pizzeria that has acquired a high reputation, especially since it hosted US President Bill Clinton, visiting Naples for the G7 in 1994. Via Tribunali also boasts other top-quality establishments, such as I Decumani pizzeria and Dal Presidente pizzeria, founded by Ernesto Cacciali, Di Matteo's former pizzaiolo who served Bill Clinton, and named in memory of his illustrious host. Nearby, his son Gigi has opened the pizzeria Il Figlio del Presidente (Via Duomo, 181). Away from the historic center, you can also discover authentic and popular addresses, with impeccable quality and unbeatable prices. In the Materdei district, Starita is considered by many Neapolitans to be one of the city's best pizzerias, and entering the neighboring Sanità district to sit down at Concettina ai Tre Santi is an experience in itself. Towards the station, Da Michele is a historic Naples establishment where tradition has been perpetuated by generations of pizzaioli. Finally, for a gourmet pizza topped with carefully selected regional ingredients, head for Pizzaria La Notizia on the outskirts of the city.
